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Routes in Discovery Wall

Between a Rock and a Hard Place S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Big Pucker, The T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Broken Arrow S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Broken Arrow (Direct) S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Buffalo Soldier T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bye-Bye Fly-By T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Cleft, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cosmos S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dead Bird Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Entrance T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fat Lips T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fly By T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Holiday Ordeal TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jorgie's Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lithium S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lost Horizons T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mammary Pump S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Melvin S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nailbox Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ordeal T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pistol Whipped S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Plague T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Portent T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Power Point S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Racing Stripes T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Straight Up T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Stupendous Man T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Swallow Crack T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Trauma T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trial S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Verdict (direct), The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wet Kiss, The S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Jim Birdwell, Larry Kilmer, Mike Kilmer
Page Views: 1,347 total, 13/month
Shared By: Greg Blevins on Jun 21, 2009
Admins: Aron Quiter, andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Pretty fun chimney which goes pretty straight up then out to the left for an easy but fairly runout slab/scramble up to the top. Decent rock with the crux being getting yourself through a narrower constriction in the chimney.

Location

Near the right hand end of Discovery Wall. Goes up the obvious chimney.

Protection

One fixed pin and two bolts. Takes standard set of hexs and nuts for further protection. Two bolts and hangers at top.

Photos

Matt G.
 
Matt G.  
 
Really easy trad route. I would agree with the 5.6 PG-13 rating, as first 15' or so are pretty much unprotected.

Past that, there are a dozen or so really good nut placements of almost any size spanning the next 50', as well as two easy to sling/cinch features.

Rope drag was kinda annoying as the bolts about 10' past the top lip, and my extenders got eaten up keeping the rope out of the crack and slinging features. If I climbed it again, I would bring some large webbing to mitigate that problem up top.

This is a great route for a first trad-lead, with lots of very forgiving placement locations. Also, a great route to teach cleaning/rappelling etc.

Nice view at the top! Feb 6, 2012
Floyd Hayes
  5.6 PG13
Floyd Hayes  
  5.6 PG13
Reasonably well protected with lots of options for gear, even in the vicinity of the bolts (which didn't seem necessary). I must have missed the fixed pin. I slung the pillar just before the last 20' of runout 5.4. Oct 10, 2011