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Routes in Discovery Wall

Between a Rock and a Hard Place S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Big Pucker, The T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Broken Arrow S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Broken Arrow (Direct) S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Buffalo Soldier T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bye-Bye Fly-By T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Cleft, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cosmos S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dead Bird Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Entrance T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fat Lips T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fly By T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Holiday Ordeal TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jorgie's Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lithium S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lost Horizons T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mammary Pump S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Melvin S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nailbox Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ordeal T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pistol Whipped S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Plague T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Portent T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Power Point S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Racing Stripes T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Straight Up T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Stupendous Man T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Swallow Crack T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Trauma T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trial S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Verdict (direct), The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wet Kiss, The S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Jim Bridwell, Dave Bircheff, Wayne Steinert 3/65
Page Views: 5,303 total, 39/month
Shared By: Marty Brenner on Sep 30, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Ordeal 5.8

Toward the right half of Discovery Wall is a left-facing corner with a nice, roof-like overhang. Start climbing up the crack and toward the roof. There is a bolt, then a fixed pin under the roof. The pin seems good and solid, but you can easily place a back-up piece. Then you get to make improbable face moves out left, before climbing up around the roof's left side. Do not stop at the intermediate belay bolts unless setting up a TR for the bottom half. Continue up the crack up to a ledge with another bolt, which somewhat protects the final headwall. There are anchor bolts in the obvious notch at the top.

This is an excellent route with solid rock. It eats up good pro, plus has several bolts along the way.

Rack: standard Discovery Wall rack - med/large nuts, small/medium cams; a Yates Screamer or two is always a good idea also.

Photos

Really fun! I'd call the majority of it 5.6-7 with the 5.8 coming from two thinner slab moves between the piton and grabbing the monster horn at the end of the roof. ElGreco is spot on. Plenty of good pro, and inspiring bolts when you need them. Can be toproped (just barely!) with 60m. Anchors both solid, although one hanger is an oxidized L bracket of unknown make. Nov 10, 2017
ElGreco
  5.8
ElGreco  
  5.8
Classic! Great climbing with good opportunities for pro before the first bolt (nuts, small/medium cams). Fixed pin just below the crux, can be backed up with an orange Metolius cam. A couple of thin and improbable moves left take you out of the cave/roof (crux) to some thoroughly enjoyable jamming (mostly hands, but fists and fingers in places) and face climbing above. Fantastic route. Mar 14, 2012
Mathew G
  5.9
Mathew G  
  5.9
For some reason this felt like a 5.8/5.9 route with one 11a move. I surely must have missed something when under that roof. Mar 7, 2012
Floyd Hayes
  5.8
Floyd Hayes  
  5.8
It felt like 5.9 when I first led it. The second time I moved a few feet farther left from the leaning crack at the crux and it was much easier, like 5.8. Look for the better holds out there on the wall. The last bolt might be out of reach if you're shorter than 4'6". Oct 10, 2011
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
Certainly one of the more classic Pinnacles routes, but "best single pitch of 5.8 in California" might be a bit of a stretch! Aug 23, 2008