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Routes in Discovery Wall

Between a Rock and a Hard Place S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Big Pucker, The T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Broken Arrow S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Broken Arrow (Direct) S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Buffalo Soldier T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bye-Bye Fly-By T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Cleft, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cosmos S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dead Bird Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Entrance T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fat Lips T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fly By T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Holiday Ordeal TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jorgie's Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lithium S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lost Horizons T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mammary Pump S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Melvin S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nailbox Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ordeal T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pistol Whipped S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Plague T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Portent T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Power Point S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Racing Stripes T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Straight Up T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Stupendous Man T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Swallow Crack T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Trauma T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trial S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Verdict (direct), The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wet Kiss, The S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, 90 ft
FA: Dave and Phil Bircheff, 1965
Page Views: 7,694 total · 44/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Jul 12, 2003
Admins: Aron Quiter, andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is located un the middle of the east face of the discovery wall, uphill where the climbers path begins to flatten out. From the path, head up about 15 feet to a large open area, where you will find the bulge that leads to the Swallow Crack.

Start on a bulgy face that leads to a wide left faced crack on a slab where excellent hands and feet are available. There is certainly some rock that will eventually pull out on this route, so use caution! After the crack, move left to the bolt, and climb some class 4 rock that will lead you to the top of the Discovery Wall.

This route is about 90 feet long, and due to the leftward movement of the route, top roping this roue either requires some interesting directionals and a long rope, or some ballsy climbers. A fall on a top rope from the anchors will swing you about 50 feet left and crash you into the slabby section of Fly-By (5.9+), the next climb over.

Protection

Bring some Friends for the crack, and you will find 2 pitons and a bolt along the way. Old pitons are not to be trusted however, so if you're uncertain, add some more pro!

Photos

Beau Griffith
Fresno, CA
Beau Griffith   Fresno, CA
This was also my first trad lead and although it was a little scary (I was a little psyched out from all the beta out there about how terrible the rock quality us), it was a LOT of fun.

Some information/updates on previous questions/beta:
-The only fixed pro I found was a piton about halfway up the crack, and the bolt just above the end of the crack.
-Anchors on the top are oddly places but serviceable. One a metolius hangar, the other an old rusty angle-iron.
-The beta regarding top-roping being logistically difficult without some serious redirects is correct. Rope drag causes an issue and is just generally difficult. It is doable though, but make sure your second can handle some creativity when lowering to reset the redirects.
-Rock quality on this climb appears good. I did not find anything loose or suspect on the line itself. Went a little bit off route on TR and there were a couple crumblies but nothing awful. Mar 6, 2017
Nicole BI
Oakland, CA
Nicole BI   Oakland, CA
Does anyone know what type of bolt hanger that is on top, climber's right of the two anchor bolts? Sep 22, 2014
Eve8008
Santa Cruz, California
 
Eve8008   Santa Cruz, California
 
This was our first outdoor climb and first wall.
I recommend this to every outdoor beginner climber.
It wasn't too hard, but hard enough for me to proceed slowly and feel the rocks. You will be able to get comfortable on this rock. Jan 23, 2013
Laws
Santa Cruz, CA
 
Laws   Santa Cruz, CA
 
This was my first outdoor climb, ever. The crack is generous and makes for a fun and quick route. Since you're using the crack most of the way up, you're not tapping on rock as much as other routes at Pinnacles. Still, beware falling rock - helmets are always handy. A great first-timer's climb. Dec 19, 2009
A great crack for placing gear, two old pins that still appear bomber and a monster exit muffin...add to it all that in the summer the routes get afternoon shade, a big airy rap from the large boulder on top when it's done, everything one could ask for. Aug 11, 2008
jpvandever
San Francisco, CA
  5.6
jpvandever   San Francisco, CA
  5.6
You can rappel down from rap rings on the large boulder directly above this climb. A 60m rope reaches the ground with a few feet to spare. Mar 25, 2008
Lisa E
  5.6
Lisa E  
  5.6
A fun route. Mar 29, 2007
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
Another OK route. Sep 25, 2006
This was my first "trad" climb. A single pitch, with good to great foot placements on the face of the crag/route. Some pro left by other climbers are in place with a couple of strategically placed bolts makes this an excellent place to practice trad climbing. Sep 11, 2003