Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Yaks

Don't Talk Back T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Liebacker's Lullaby T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
North Yak Northwest Face S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shoot the Tube T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Splatter Matt S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Split Infinity S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tato Pani T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Elevation: 2,112 ft
GPS: 36.47, -121.182 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 5,604 total · 113/month
Shared By: powderfinger on Dec 17, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
Getting weather forecast...

Description

The Yaks are worth a visit If you enjoy seclusion, beautiful scenery, varied climbing, and do not mind a slightly longer approach. Some of the routes are typical bolted Pinnacles face climbs but the majority feature climbing in water chutes, wide cracks, and chimneys. Route lengths are for the most part a full rope length and sometimes up to 3 pitches. A good deal of the routes are bolt protected with supplemental gear or all gear protected. Generally the rock quality is decent but due to the lack of traffic in the area it is beneficial to be accustomed to and aware of climbing on loose Pinnacles rock with 15 to 20 feet between placements.

This area is subject to closure for raptors so it is advisable to check the status at the visitor center beforehand.
Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Getting There

The Yaks are located on the backside of the hill East of Bear Gulch. If you look east uphill from the Monolith there are slabs with grooves in them. The Yak Wall is located directly behind the slabs on the other side of the hill.

There are two ways to approach the Yaks. Both start from the Moses Spring trail in the Bear Gulch. The first way is to approach them from the North via the slabs on the hill above the Monolith. Take the Moses Spring trail to the North side of the Monolith to about where the cave trail rejoins the trail. At the trail marker numbered 15 there is a climber's trail that splits off uphill to the East. Follow this trail uphill to the slabs. Continue up the slabs for a few hundred yards. At this point you have two options. Cut back left (north) and walk until you reach a notch in the Marmot Rocks or continue up the slabs to the top of the ridge. Once you reach the Marmot Rocks follow them uphill pass over the ridge and continue on a climbers trail that wraps around to the East to the right side of the Yaks Wall. If you follow the slabs all the way up walk along the ridge to the North and then take the same climber's trail.

It is also possible to approach the Yaks from the South. This is achieved by using the Chalone Peak trail that is located past the reservoir. Take the Moses Springs Trail to the reservoir. Cross over to the East side by the Sisters until you reach the Chalone Peak Trail. Follow the Chalone Peak trail until it reaches a saddle(by the formation The Driver) where a climber's trail splits off up the ridge to the North.
Follow the ridge staying high to avoid dropping down into the brush. This will require passing through a few rock formations. Eventually The South Yak will come into view(the largest formation in the distance) Drop down to East to skirt around the base of the South Yak to reach the North Yak and the beginning of Yak Wall.

7 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: The Yaks Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at The Yaks

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Liebacker's Lullaby
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tato Pani
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shoot the Tube
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Split Infinity
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Liebacker's Lullaby 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Tato Pani 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Shoot the Tube 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Split Infinity 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Yaks »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

powderfinger
san mateo
powderfinger   san mateo
Closures are only seasonal. They usually start the week after MLK day and are in effect until the biologists determine that the nesting is finished (usually in the summer when it is too hot to climb at Pinnacles) The Yaks are always on the list of closures. If you are planning a trip there close to the beginning of the closures you can check the Friends of Pinnacles website or Mud and Crud for updates. The information for closures is also posted in the park at the visitor center. Sep 28, 2014
I thought these were closed permanently for raptors. if not I'd like to check them out, because I always find aggressive signs when I go there indicating it's closed. Sep 13, 2014

More About The Yaks

Printer-Friendly Guide
What's New

All Photos Within The Yaks (16)

Most Popular · Newest