Elevation: 1,979 ft
GPS: 36.497, -121.201 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 38,192 total · 184/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Jul 7, 2003 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: andy patterson, Aron Quiter, Bruce Hildenbrand, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This crazy 700 foot wall holds some excellent routes, some trad,most sport. It's about 1/2 a mile long, so there's something foranyone willing to lead 5.8 and above, and willing to commit atleast a few hours (if not a whole day) for some multipitch fun.You can also boulder in the arch, which is pretty easy to get toif you're on the west side of Pinnicles National Monument.

Type of rock... All sorts of shit. Volcanically generated looseshit that's scary and fun as hell.

This rock will be in the sun part of the day, and in the shadesome, depending on what you're climbing.

Classics: Machete Direct (5.12a or 5.8 A2) and Destiny (5.8).

Getting There

Approach time: 15 minutes.From the West end parking lot, take the trail leading down to the Balconies and The Machete Ridge Area. After walking through a series of large rocks (some up to 150' tall), you will finally have the Machete in view, in all of it's magnificence.The trail will lead into the Arch, which is a 300 foot long arch that allows some seriously highball bouldering, and the possibility for a really really heinous start of a short route.

16 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Machete Ridge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 49
Old Original
Trad 6 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 10
Twinkle Toes Traverse
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A1
 5
Bill's Bad Bolts
Sport, Aid 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 30
Dos Equis
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b A0
 8
Lucky 13 -to- GP Headwall -to- R…
Sport, Aid 6 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b A1 R
 20
Machete Direct
Trad, Sport, Aid 6 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 21
Cuidado!
Sport 5 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 5
Robots of Dawn
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A0-1 PG13
 16
Son of Dawn Wall
Trad, Sport, Aid 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Old Original S Face
 49
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 6 pitches
Twinkle Toes Traverse W Face > Bad Man Mezzanine/Low…
 10
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 2 pitches
Bill's Bad Bolts W Face > Main Face
 5
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A1 Sport, Aid 3 pitches
Dos Equis W Face > Bad Man Mezzanine/Low…
 30
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Sport
Lucky 13 -to- GP Headwall -… W Face > Main Face
 8
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b A0 Sport, Aid 6 pitches
Machete Direct W Face > Main Face
 20
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b A1 R Trad, Sport, Aid 6 pitches
Cuidado! N Face
 21
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport 5 pitches
Robots of Dawn W Face > Main Face
 5
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Son of Dawn Wall W Face > Main Face
 16
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A0-1 PG13 Trad, Sport, Aid 4 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Machete Ridge »

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