Elevation: 1,979 ft
GPS: 36.49729, -121.20149
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 63,477 total · 266/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Jul 7, 2003 · Updates
Admins: andy patterson, Aron Quiter, Bruce Hildenbrand, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This crazy 700 foot wall holds some excellent routes, some trad, most sport. It's about 1/2 a mile long, so there's something for anyone willing to lead 5.8 and above, and willing to commit at least a few hours (if not a whole day) for some multipitch fun.You can also boulder in the arch, which is pretty easy to get to if you're on the west side of Pinnacles National Monument.

Type of rock... All sorts of shit. Volcanically generated loose shit that's scary and fun as hell.

This rock will be in the sun part of the day, and in the shade some, depending on what you're climbing.

Classics: Machete Direct (5.12a or 5.8 A2) and Destiny (5.8).

IMPORTANT NOTICE: Since 2018 a pair of condors has been trying to nest on the south end of Machete Ridge. When this happens all routes to the right(west) of Corona and extending west and south and around to The Hideout on the south face which includes Old Original are closed. More information is located here:

https://www.nps.gov/pinn/planyourvisit/advisory.htm

Getting There

Approach time: 15 minutes.From the West end parking lot, take the trail leading down to the Balconies and The Machete Ridge Area. After walking through a series of large rocks (some up to 150' tall), you will finally have the Machete in view, in all of it's magnificence.The trail will lead into the Arch, which is a 300 foot long arch that allows some seriously highball bouldering, and the possibility for a really really heinous start of a short route.

26 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Machete Ridge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 14
Twinkle Toes Traverse
Trad 2 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 59
Old Original
Trad 6 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 30
Corona
Sport
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
 3
Drop Zone
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A1
 5
Bill's Bad Bolts
Sport, Aid 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 39
Dos Equis
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A1
 4
Los Banditos
Trad, Aid
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b A0
 10
Lucky 13 -to- GP Headwall -to- R…
Sport, Aid 6 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b A1 R
 22
Machete Direct
Trad, Sport, Aid 6 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 23
Cuidado!
Sport 5 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 6
Robots of Dawn
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A0-1 PG13
 20
Son of Dawn Wall
Trad, Sport, Aid 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Twinkle Toes Traverse W Face > Bad Man Mezzanine/Low…
 14
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 2 pitches
Old Original S Face
 59
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 6 pitches
Corona W Face > Bad Man Mezzanine/Low…
 30
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Drop Zone W Face > Bad Man Mezzanine/Low…
 3
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R Trad
Bill's Bad Bolts W Face > Main Face
 5
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A1 Sport, Aid 3 pitches
Dos Equis W Face > Bad Man Mezzanine/Low…
 39
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad
Los Banditos W Face > Main Face
 4
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A1 Trad, Aid
Lucky 13 -to- GP Headwall -… W Face > Main Face
 10
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b A0 Sport, Aid 6 pitches
Machete Direct W Face > Main Face
 22
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b A1 R Trad, Sport, Aid 6 pitches
Cuidado! N Face
 23
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport 5 pitches
Robots of Dawn W Face > Main Face
 6
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Son of Dawn Wall W Face > Main Face
 20
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A0-1 PG13 Trad, Sport, Aid 4 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Machete Ridge »

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