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Routes in Machete Ridge

Bill's Bad Bolts S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A1
Corona S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cuidado! S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dos Equis S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Los Banditos T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A1
Lucky 13 -to- GP Headwall -to- Rock Around the Clock S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b A0
Machete Direct T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b A1 R
Old Original T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Robots of Dawn S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Son of Dawn Wall T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A0-1 PG13
Sons of the West T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C0
Twinkle Toes Traverse T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
West Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A1 R
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description [Suggest Change]

This crazy 700 foot wall holds some excellent routes, some trad,most sport. It's about 1/2 a mile long, so there's something foranyone willing to lead 5.8 and above, and willing to commit atleast a few hours (if not a whole day) for some multipitch fun.You can also boulder in the arch, which is pretty easy to get toif you're on the west side of Pinnicles National Monument.

Type of rock... All sorts of shit. Volcanically generated looseshit that's scary and fun as hell.

This rock will be in the sun part of the day, and in the shadesome, depending on what you're climbing.

Classics: Machete Direct (5.12a or 5.8 A2) and Destiny (5.8).

Getting There [Suggest Change]

Approach time: 15 minutes.From the West end parking lot, take the trail leading down to theBalconies and The Machete Ridge Area. After walking through aserious of large rocks (some up to 150' tall), you will finallyhave the Machete in view, in all of it's magnificance.The trail will lead into the Arch, which is a 300 foot long archthat allows some seriously highball bouldering, and thepossibility for a really really heinous start of a short route.

13 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Machete Ridge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 40
Old Original
Trad 6 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 7
Twinkle Toes Traverse
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A1
 3
Bill's Bad Bolts
Sport, Aid 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 24
Dos Equis
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b A0
 6
Lucky 13 -to- GP Headwall -to- Rock A…
Sport, Aid 6 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b A1 R
 17
Machete Direct
Trad, Sport, Aid 6 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 17
Cuidado!
Sport 5 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A0-1 PG13
 13
Son of Dawn Wall
Trad, Sport, Aid 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Old Original
 40
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 6 pitches
Twinkle Toes Traverse
 7
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 2 pitches
Bill's Bad Bolts
 3
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A1 Sport, Aid 3 pitches
Dos Equis
 24
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Sport
Lucky 13 -to- GP Headwall -…
 6
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b A0 Sport, Aid 6 pitches
Machete Direct
 17
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b A1 R Trad, Sport, Aid 6 pitches
Cuidado!
 17
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport 5 pitches
Son of Dawn Wall
 13
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A0-1 PG13 Trad, Sport, Aid 4 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Machete Ridge »

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Photos

huh? 1 1/2 miles long?

Not even close.I dare say it's not even a 1/2 mile long. A 1/4 mile? Doubt it.

Jul 25, 2003

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