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Routes in Machete Ridge

Corona S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cuidado! S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dos Equis S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Los Banditos T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A1
Lucky 13 -to- GP Headwall -to- Rock Around the Clock S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b A0
Machete Direct T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b A1 R
Old Original T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Robots of Dawn S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Son of Dawn Wall T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A0-1 PG13
Sons of the West T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C0
Twinkle Toes Traverse T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, Aid, 500 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Dave Crough and Christian Straight, 1978
Page Views: 3,103 total, 27/month
Shared By: Kevin Friedrich on Aug 7, 2008
Admins: Aron Quiter, andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

I feel this excellent mixed route may be better than Cuidado. It follows one of the most striking lines in the Park, and offers great and sustained adventure climbing.

P1: Fun sport climbing on good rock. Enjoyable bulge with some cool, non-pinnacles like moves. A little loose up high, but a superfluous amount of bolts protect all moves. Ends at bolt belay.

P2: Some bolt-pulling aid moves through a chossy steep section, much like Bills Bad Bolts. Then open face climbing in a groove. Some exciting 5.9 here. Ends at bolt belay.

P3: More classical Machete face climbing to an invigorating run-out 5.9 move. Then climb into huge flaring chimney with some pods for pro. funky bolt belay.

P4: Wiggle through the huge flaring chimney. The slot in the back feels like Yosemite 5.8. Pitch ends at shiny rap station on top of a cool chock stone. Great Pitch. Rap route from here or continue to top.

P5: Cruise up gully to summit of ridge.

Location

This route starts about 200 yards up and to the right or Dos Equis. The first pitch climbs from out under a big oak. The upper pitches climb the obvious flare which can be seen from the trail leading into the west side.

Protection

Draws and slings for bolts. Make sure to carry many slings since this will reduce rope drag and make it easier to pull through the aid section. The upper chimney/flare pitches protect with medium size nuts and 1 each cams from .75-5".

Two ropes needed to rapp route.
Isaiah Foulks
Monterey
 
Isaiah Foulks   Monterey
 
After the chockstone, there is supposed to be "exposed fourth class to summit." Either we went off route, or someone's idea of fourth class is twisted... Just after the chockstone, there appear to be 2 notches: one goes left, and one goes higher up and to the right. My partner took the left one (I belayed) and nearly ran out of rope (60m). Luckily we chose to place gear, because there was still some technical climbing at several instances. Strangly enough, we ended right at the end of Old Original Pitch 2. Hard to say if we should have gone up and right instead, but our way was seriously a good challenge. Mar 16, 2017
I freed the first pitch in the early 80's with Rich Kropp. Many 1/4 bolts...didn't have quickdraws in those days and as was the custom then clipped with double carabiners until I ran out....single biners for the last few (probably safer)! Great pitch** Mar 14, 2017
Joe Forrester
Palo Alto
  5.11b C0
Joe Forrester   Palo Alto
  5.11b C0
Fun climb in great setting.

P1- 5.11b, but there are so many bolts it could be graded C(-1).
P2- Easy bolt ladder. Would be interested to know if anyone has freed this....bet it goes
P3- 5.8 slabbing
P4- 5.8/9 slabbing into the chimney.
P5- Chimney to chockstone.
P6- to top.

Gear could be: lots of draws, 0.3, 2 x#1, #3, and you would be pretty set. The chimney is really easy, tons of friction, and not much loose rock. Jan 29, 2017
David Cook  
 
Bring two 60 meter ropes if you want to rap. Beware of the final chimney! Dec 3, 2015
Mickey Sensenbach
San luis obispo CA
 
Mickey Sensenbach   San luis obispo CA
 
this route was super adventurous! it is easy till the chimney then it gets scary, not nessarily hard but it is very lose and bad pro! the crux is the pitch going into the chimney, which would be the first chimney pitch! I agree with john for the descent but instead of doing the hideout thing we reversed the first 2 pitches of old original! pretty fun time! Nov 3, 2013
Awesome fun route. The squeeze chimney up top is super memorable. Jan 26, 2013
Instead of rapping, you can also continue to the top, head east (climber's left) across the top of the ridge and rap down the Hideout (less than 100' rap). About 20 minutes or so of scrambling down to the right (clockwise as viewed from the top)- 2nd/3rd Class - and you'll be back to the base of the climb. Probably easier/safer than rapping the entire route. Feb 9, 2012