Type: Trad, Sport, Aid, 500 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Dave Crough and Christian Straight, 1978
Page Views: 3,893 total · 29/month
Shared By: Kevin Friedrich on Aug 7, 2008
Admins: Aron Quiter, andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

I feel this excellent mixed route may be better than Cuidado. It follows one of the most striking lines in the Park, and offers great and sustained adventure climbing.

P1: Fun sport climbing on good rock. Enjoyable bulge with some cool, non-pinnacles like moves. A little loose up high, but a superfluous amount of bolts protect all moves. Ends at bolt belay.

P2: Some bolt-pulling aid moves through a chossy steep section, much like Bills Bad Bolts. Then open face climbing in a groove. Some exciting 5.9 here. Ends at bolt belay.

P3: More classical Machete face climbing to an invigorating run-out 5.9 move. Then climb into huge flaring chimney with some pods for pro. funky bolt belay.

P4: Wiggle through the huge flaring chimney. The slot in the back feels like Yosemite 5.8. Pitch ends at shiny rap station on top of a cool chock stone. Great Pitch. Rap route from here or continue to top.

P5: Cruise up gully to summit of ridge.

Location

This route starts about 200 yards up and to the right or Dos Equis. The first pitch climbs from out under a big oak. The upper pitches climb the obvious flare which can be seen from the trail leading into the west side.

Protection

Draws and slings for bolts. Make sure to carry many slings since this will reduce rope drag and make it easier to pull through the aid section. The upper chimney/flare pitches protect with medium size nuts and 1 each cams from .75-5".

Two ropes needed to rapp route.

Photos