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Son of Dawn Wall
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British A0-1 PG13
Avg: 3.1 from 22 votes
Type: | Trad, Sport, Aid, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches |
FA: | Dave Crough and Christian Straight, 1978 |
Page Views: | 5,794 total · 30/month |
Shared By: | Kevin Friedrich on Aug 7, 2008 |
Admins: | andy patterson, Aron Quiter, Bruce Hildenbrand, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Always check this web page before you visit for current conditions and nesting closures:
Current Raptor Advisories for Pinnacles National Park nps.gov/pinn/planyourvisit/…
and
pinnacles.org/climbing_info…
Closures effective as of the day after Martin Luther King Day- July 3. Check closure website for details on closed areas.
SPECIAL NOTICE: due to nesting condors the Machete Ridge area may be closed, from Dos Equis / Corona on west face then west around the south side to The Hideout including the popular Old Original. Check the NPS and Friends of Pinnacles websites for further information.
Current Raptor Advisories for Pinnacles National Park nps.gov/pinn/planyourvisit/…
and
pinnacles.org/climbing_info…
Closures effective as of the day after Martin Luther King Day- July 3. Check closure website for details on closed areas.
SPECIAL NOTICE: due to nesting condors the Machete Ridge area may be closed, from Dos Equis / Corona on west face then west around the south side to The Hideout including the popular Old Original. Check the NPS and Friends of Pinnacles websites for further information.
Description
I feel this excellent mixed route may be better than Cuidado. It follows one of the most striking lines in the Park, and offers great and sustained adventure climbing.
P1: Fun sport climbing on good rock. Enjoyable bulge with some cool, non-pinnacles like moves. A little loose up high, but a superfluous amount of bolts protect all moves. Ends at bolt belay.
P2: Some bolt-pulling aid moves through a chossy steep section, much like Bills Bad Bolts. Then open face climbing in a groove. Some exciting 5.9 here. Ends at bolt belay.
P3: More classical Machete face climbing to an invigorating run-out 5.9 move. Then climb into huge flaring chimney with some pods for pro. funky bolt belay.
P4: Wiggle through the huge flaring chimney. The slot in the back feels like Yosemite 5.8. Pitch ends at shiny rap station on top of a cool chock stone. Great Pitch. Rap route from here or continue to top.
P5: Cruise up gully to summit of ridge.
P1: Fun sport climbing on good rock. Enjoyable bulge with some cool, non-pinnacles like moves. A little loose up high, but a superfluous amount of bolts protect all moves. Ends at bolt belay.
P2: Some bolt-pulling aid moves through a chossy steep section, much like Bills Bad Bolts. Then open face climbing in a groove. Some exciting 5.9 here. Ends at bolt belay.
P3: More classical Machete face climbing to an invigorating run-out 5.9 move. Then climb into huge flaring chimney with some pods for pro. funky bolt belay.
P4: Wiggle through the huge flaring chimney. The slot in the back feels like Yosemite 5.8. Pitch ends at shiny rap station on top of a cool chock stone. Great Pitch. Rap route from here or continue to top.
P5: Cruise up gully to summit of ridge.
22 Comments