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Twinkle Toes Traverse
5.5 YDS 4b French 13 Ewbanks IV+ UIAA 11 ZA MS 4a British
Avg: 2.3 from 7
votes
Routes in Machete Ridge
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Bill's Bad Bolts S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A1 |
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Corona S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Cuidado! S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Dos Equis S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Los Banditos T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A1 |
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Lucky 13 -to- GP Headwall -to- Rock Around the Clock S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b A0 |
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Machete Direct T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b A1 R |
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Old Original T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Robots of Dawn S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Son of Dawn Wall T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A0-1 PG13 |
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Sons of the West T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C0 |
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Twinkle Toes Traverse T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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West Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A1 R |
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches |
| FA: | Seth Boatright, Chuck Richards, 1972 |
| Page Views: | 1,528 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | rhyang on Apr 7, 2013 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Always check this web page before you visit for current conditions and nesting closures:
Current Raptor Advisories for Pinnacles National Parknps.gov/pinn/planyourvisit/…
and
pinnacles.org/climbing_info…
Closures effective as of the day after Martin Luther King Day- July 3. Check closure website for details on closed areas.
Current Raptor Advisories for Pinnacles National Parknps.gov/pinn/planyourvisit/…
and
pinnacles.org/climbing_info…
Closures effective as of the day after Martin Luther King Day- July 3. Check closure website for details on closed areas.
Description
p1: Climb up the face just to the right of a right-facing corner, protected by two bolts. Place a piece before things get too hard, and then step up and left out of the corner onto the face. Don't make the mistake of going all the way up the corner. Head up the face to a bolted anchor.
p2: Traverse up and left, passing four bolts, one of which is a barn door handle ("70's climbing humor"). Head up into another shallow corner to a bolted anchor.
p2: Traverse up and left, passing four bolts, one of which is a barn door handle ("70's climbing humor"). Head up into another shallow corner to a bolted anchor.
Location
The route starts about 30 feet to the left of Dos Equis, near an oak tree.
Descent: scramble third class down and left to the anchor for Bandits in Bondage and rappel -- two ropes required (50m will suffice). Might be good to carry approach shoes for the walk back up to the start of the route if you left a pack there.
Descent: scramble third class down and left to the anchor for Bandits in Bondage and rappel -- two ropes required (50m will suffice). Might be good to carry approach shoes for the walk back up to the start of the route if you left a pack there.
Monterey
regarding descent, if you hate carrying two ropes like me, its rrally easy to scramble to the top of badman mezzanine and going down the fourth class chimnney to reach the rappell anchors on the left (north) side. from there its two short raps to the ground (60m rope). this definitely takes a bit longer than just double rope rapping from twinkle toes, but its a fun adventurr scramble and i just hate carrying two ropes. Apr 2, 2018