Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Seth Boatright, Chuck Richards, 1972
Page Views: 1,528 total · 22/month
Shared By: rhyang on Apr 7, 2013 with updates from Robert Hall
Admins: Aron Quiter, andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details


p1: Climb up the face just to the right of a right-facing corner, protected by two bolts. Place a piece before things get too hard, and then step up and left out of the corner onto the face. Don't make the mistake of going all the way up the corner. Head up the face to a bolted anchor.

p2: Traverse up and left, passing four bolts, one of which is a barn door handle ("70's climbing humor"). Head up into another shallow corner to a bolted anchor.


The route starts about 30 feet to the left of Dos Equis, near an oak tree.

Descent: scramble third class down and left to the anchor for Bandits in Bondage and rappel -- two ropes required (50m will suffice). Might be good to carry approach shoes for the walk back up to the start of the route if you left a pack there.


4 quickdraws, a few shoulder-length slings, and a couple of small-to-midsize cams should suffice, as I recall.


Isaiah Foulks
Isaiah Foulks   Monterey
fun route, but both pitches were very short. i would recommend linking the two for a single pitch. shouldnt be too hard if extended properly. i only placed a .75 to suppliment the bolts on the first pitch (placed above second bolt, just before moving left onto face). if you extend there with a double runner, rope drag shouldnt be too bad. its 5.5..

regarding descent, if you hate carrying two ropes like me, its rrally easy to scramble to the top of badman mezzanine and going down the fourth class chimnney to reach the rappell anchors on the left (north) side. from there its two short raps to the ground (60m rope). this definitely takes a bit longer than just double rope rapping from twinkle toes, but its a fun adventurr scramble and i just hate carrying two ropes. Apr 2, 2018
Instead of placing a piece in the corner before stepping up and over (p1), one of the local climbers placed a sling around the flake, then stepped over. Sling was webbed nylon and extended 160cm. Oct 28, 2018