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Routes in Machete Ridge

Bill's Bad Bolts S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A1
Corona S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cuidado! S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dos Equis S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Los Banditos T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A1
Lucky 13 -to- GP Headwall -to- Rock Around the Clock S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b A0
Machete Direct T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b A1 R
Old Original T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Robots of Dawn S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Son of Dawn Wall T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A0-1 PG13
Sons of the West T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C0
Twinkle Toes Traverse T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Seth Boatright, Chuck Richards, 1972
Page Views: 1,357 total · 22/month
Shared By: rhyang on Apr 7, 2013 with updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

p1: Climb up the face just to the right of a right-facing corner, protected by two bolts. Place a piece before things get too hard, and then step up and left out of the corner onto the face. Don't make the mistake of going all the way up the corner. Head up the face to a bolted anchor.

p2: Traverse up and left, passing four bolts, one of which is a barn door handle ("70's climbing humor"). Head up into another shallow corner to a bolted anchor.

Location

The route starts about 30 feet to the left of Dos Equis, near an oak tree.

Descent: scramble third class down and left to the anchor for Bandits in Bondage and rappel -- two ropes required (50m will suffice). Might be good to carry approach shoes for the walk back up to the start of the route if you left a pack there.

Protection

4 quickdraws, a few shoulder-length slings, and a couple of small-to-midsize cams should suffice, as I recall.

Photos

Isaiah Foulks
Monterey
Isaiah Foulks   Monterey
fun route, but both pitches were very short. i would recommend linking the two for a single pitch. shouldnt be too hard if extended properly. i only placed a .75 to suppliment the bolts on the first pitch (placed above second bolt, just before moving left onto face). if you extend there with a double runner, rope drag shouldnt be too bad. its 5.5..

regarding descent, if you hate carrying two ropes like me, its rrally easy to scramble to the top of badman mezzanine and going down the fourth class chimnney to reach the rappell anchors on the left (north) side. from there its two short raps to the ground (60m rope). this definitely takes a bit longer than just double rope rapping from twinkle toes, but its a fun adventurr scramble and i just hate carrying two ropes. Apr 2, 2018

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