Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Machete Ridge

Bill's Bad Bolts S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A1
Corona S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cuidado! S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dos Equis S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Los Banditos T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A1
Lucky 13 -to- GP Headwall -to- Rock Around the Clock S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b A0
Machete Direct T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b A1 R
Old Original T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Robots of Dawn S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Son of Dawn Wall T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A0-1 PG13
Sons of the West T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C0
Twinkle Toes Traverse T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Seth Boatright, Chuck Richards, 1972
Page Views: 1,277 total · 22/month
Shared By: rhyang on Apr 7, 2013 with updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


7 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

p1: Climb up the face just to the right of a right-facing corner, protected by two bolts. Place a piece before things get too hard, and then step up and left out of the corner onto the face. Don't make the mistake of going all the way up the corner. Head up the face to a bolted anchor.

p2: Traverse up and left, passing four bolts, one of which is a barn door handle ("70's climbing humor"). Head up into another shallow corner to a bolted anchor.

Location

The route starts about 30 feet to the left of Dos Equis, near an oak tree.

Descent: scramble third class down and left to the anchor for Bandits in Bondage and rappel -- two ropes required (50m will suffice). Might be good to carry approach shoes for the walk back up to the start of the route if you left a pack there.

Protection

4 quickdraws, a few shoulder-length slings, and a couple of small-to-midsize cams should suffice, as I recall.

Photos

0 Comments