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Elevation: 1,368 ft 417 m
GPS: 36.49753, -121.20254
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Bruce Hildenbrand on Jun 9, 2020
Admins: andy patterson, Aron Quiter, Bruce Hildenbrand, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This area describes all the climbs on the west face.  There are several terraces such as Bad Man Mezzanine which have a number of popular one and two pitch routes.  Route on the Main Face may begin by climbing one or a combination of routes on the lower terraces, but they are distinguished because they reach the top of Machete Ridge.

Note that the rock on the west face of Machete Ridge is OK, but can be loose in places.  When climbing any route on this wall please be careful not to knock down rocks on the hikers below.

IMPORTANT NOTICE: since 2018 a pair of condors has been trying to nest on the south end of Machete Ridge. When this happens all routes including Pigeon Crack and extending west and south and around to The Hideout on the south face which includes Old Original are closed. More information is located here:

https://www.nps.gov/pinn/planyourvisit/advisory.htm

Getting There Suggest change

From the west side parking lot follow the Balconies Trail for 0.6mi until reaching the intersection with the Balconies Cave Trail.  Follow the carabiner marker of the climbers trail up and to the base of the routes, except Machete Direct which is a bit further along the Balconies Cave Trail.

24 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: West Face Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at West Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 16
Twinkle Toes Traverse
Trad 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 37
Corona
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A1
 5
Bill's Bad Bolts
Sport, Aid 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 47
Dos Equis
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1
 4
Los Banditos
Trad, Aid
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b A0
 11
Lucky 13 -to- GP Headwall -to- R…
Sport, Aid 6 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b A1 R
 24
Machete Direct
Trad, Sport, Aid 6 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A0-1 PG13
 24
Son of Dawn Wall
Trad, Sport, Aid 4 pitches
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 8
Robots of Dawn
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Twinkle Toes Traverse Bad Man Mezzanine/Low…
 16
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 2 pitches
Corona Bad Man Mezzanine/Low…
 37
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Bill's Bad Bolts Main Face
 5
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A1 Sport, Aid 3 pitches
Dos Equis Bad Man Mezzanine/Low…
 47
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad
Los Banditos Main Face
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1 Trad, Aid
Lucky 13 -to- GP Headwall -… Main Face
 11
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b A0 Sport, Aid 6 pitches
Machete Direct Main Face
 24
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b A1 R Trad, Sport, Aid 6 pitches
Son of Dawn Wall Main Face
 24
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A0-1 PG13 Trad, Sport, Aid 4 pitches
Robots of Dawn Main Face
 8
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in West Face »

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