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Routes in Machete Ridge

Corona S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cuidado! S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dos Equis S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Los Banditos T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A1
Lucky 13 -to- GP Headwall -to- Rock Around the Clock S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b A0
Machete Direct T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b A1 R
Old Original T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Robots of Dawn S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Son of Dawn Wall T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A0-1 PG13
Sons of the West T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C0
Twinkle Toes Traverse T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, Aid, 700 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 394 total, 40/month
Shared By: Tony Lobay on Jan 31, 2017
Admins: Aron Quiter, andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details


This is the link up of Lucky 13 to George and Phyllis' Headwall to Rock Around the Clock. This link up provides 6 or 7 pitches of 5.8-5.10a/b climbing with a short bolt ladder in the middle. The bolt ladder is a bit reachy - recommend using aiders rather than just pulling on draws. The route is quite similar in character to Machete Direct.

P1 (Lucky 13): 5.10a bolt ladder. 13 densely spaced bolts. Quality rock.
P2: Climb around the Bad Man Mezzanine. Four bolts. 5.4 OK rock. Belay at the pine tree.
P3: GP Headwall. 5.10 a/b start leads to easier 5.7. Cut right and continue up to Rock Around the Clock. Alternatively climb to the top of the GP Headwall and move belay over to Rock Around the Clock.
P4: Climb the 5.9/A0 bolt ladder. Bolts to a 5.9 move to more bolts lead to an intermediate anchor.
P5: 5.8 to 3rd class section. (Can be split into two pitches).
P6: 5.5 to top of ridge. Small cams pro the 5.5 section.

There are numerous variations: Bill's Bad Bolts and Los Banditos are alternative finishes (vs. Rock Around the Clock). Alias Bandits Bench is an alternate start. Lucky 13 is obnoxiously over-bolted (the bolt ladder extends over 5.7 terrain + sawn tree limbs).

Listing this as a complete route since the eclectic mix of pitches that were done at different times is irrelevant. The provides a comprehensive bottom-to-top route for someone browsing Pinnacles West.

All bolts are in excellent condition. All anchors are bolts and have chains. Requires two ropes to rap. Alternative descent from top of the ridge is possible. You cannot rap 3 with a 70m rope.

Where do I start?!

Middle of Machete Ridge. Start is the obvious bolt ladder of Lucky 13.


Bolts for first 5 pitches. The final 5.5 pitch can be protected with small cams (or just run it out).


Alternative to the above that we did yesterday: Alias Bandit Bench (5.8) to Redline (5.7) to Bills Bad Bolts (5.9 A0/1 to 5.8R). For the descent, we walked down the steep grassy gully to a two bolt anchor, which we rappelled down with two 60m ropes; scrambled down the narrow gulley for about 200 feet to a grassy ledge with a tree wrapped with webbing. A two rope rappel leads to a scramble down to the silver door. Great climb! Oct 15, 2017
Chris Bersbach
Arroyo Grande, CA
Chris Bersbach   Arroyo Grande, CA
This is good tour up the face of Machete Ridge. Faster and easier than Machete Direct. We took the left route around the Badman Mezzanine, rather than the right, for pitch 3 (traversing left on bolts, then right up the 4th class chimney. Descended by following the ridge to the rap anchors at the top of (I think) Son of Dawn, and rapelling off the back of the ridge, then walked down from near the start of OId Original. Apr 16, 2017