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Elevation: 1,547 ft
GPS: 36.49775, -121.20224
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Bruce Hildenbrand on Jun 9, 2020
Admins: andy patterson, Aron Quiter, Bruce Hildenbrand, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Routes in this area range from two to eight pitches and are distinguished from other climbs on the west face in that they reach the top of Machete Ridge.  Some of these climbs begin from the base of the wall whereas others require one or two approach pitches from one of the mezzanine/terraces routes to gain their start.

There are several options to descend from the routes which top out on the top of Machete Ridge.  First, you can make four single rope rappels from the top of Rock Around the Clock.  Be careful walking down the gully to the start of the first rappel.  Secondly, you can make four double rope rappels from the top of Bill's Bad Bolts.  Scramble over to the top of Bandits in Bondage for the fourth rappel.  Lastly, you can continue climbing along Machete Ridge to the north and use the descent for the Old Original.

IMPORTANT NOTICE: Due to a pair of nesting condors, effective immediately, all routes to the right(west) of Corona and extending west and south and around to The Hideout on the south face which includes Old Original. More information is located here:

https://www.nps.gov/pinn/planyourvisit/advisory.htm

       

   

       


Getting There Suggest change

Hike 0.6mi on the Balconies Trail from the west side parking lot to the junction with the Balconies Caves Trail.  Follow the climber's trail, marked by a carabiner sign, to the base of the climbs.  Please respect the green vegetation restoration fencing in the area.

11 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Main Face Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Main Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A1
 5
Bill's Bad Bolts
Sport, Aid 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1
 4
Los Banditos
Trad, Aid
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b A0
 10
Lucky 13 -to- GP Headwall -to- R…
Sport, Aid 6 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b A1 R
 24
Machete Direct
Trad, Sport, Aid 6 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A0-1 PG13
 22
Son of Dawn Wall
Trad, Sport, Aid 4 pitches
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 8
Robots of Dawn
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Bill's Bad Bolts
 5
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A1 Sport, Aid 3 pitches
Los Banditos
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1 Trad, Aid
Lucky 13 -to- GP Headwall -…
 10
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b A0 Sport, Aid 6 pitches
Machete Direct
 24
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b A1 R Trad, Sport, Aid 6 pitches
Son of Dawn Wall
 22
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A0-1 PG13 Trad, Sport, Aid 4 pitches
Robots of Dawn
 8
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Main Face »

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