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Main Face

California > Central Coast > Pinnacles NP > W Side > Machete Ridge > W Face
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description

Routes in this area range from two to eight pitches and are distinguished from other climbs on the west face in that they reach the top of Machete Ridge.  Some of these climbs begin from the base of the wall whereas others require one or two approach pitches from one of the mezzanine/terraces routes to gain their start.

There are several options to descend from the routes which top out on the top of Machete Ridge.  First, you can make four single rope rappels from the top of Rock Around the Clock.  Be careful walking down the gully to the start of the first rappel.  Secondly, you can make four double rope rappels from the top of Bill's Bad Bolts.  Scramble over to the top of Bandits in Bondage for the fourth rappel.  Lastly, you can continue climbing along Machete Ridge to the north and use the descent for the Old Original.

IMPORTANT NOTICE: since 2018 a pair of condors has been trying to nest on the south end of Machete Ridge. When this happens all routes including Pigeon Crack and extending west and south and around to The Hideout on the south face which includes Old Original are closed. More information is located here:

https://www.nps.gov/pinn/planyourvisit/advisory.htm

       

   

       


Getting There

Hike 0.6mi on the Balconies Trail from the west side parking lot to the junction with the Balconies Caves Trail.  Follow the climber's trail, marked by a carabiner sign, to the base of the climbs.  Please respect the green vegetation restoration fencing in the area.

Routes from Left to Right

5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b A1 R
 25
Machete Direct
Trad, Sport, Aid 6 pitches
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
 2
Machete Direct - Free
Trad 6 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C0 R
 1
Daedalus
Trad, Aid 5 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A1
 8
Bill's Bad Bolts
Sport, Aid 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1
 3
Rock Around the Clock
Sport, Aid 2 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b A0
 11
Lucky 13 -to- GP Headwall -to- R…
Sport, Aid 6 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A1
 6
Los Banditos
Trad, Aid
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 7
Proteus
Sport 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A1 R
 1
West Face
Trad, Aid
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
 1
Pigeon Crack
Trad
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 8
Robots of Dawn
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A0-1 PG13
 27
Son of Dawn Wall
Trad, Sport, Aid 4 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C0
 3
Sons of the West
Trad, Aid 6 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 R
 1
Icarus
Trad, Aid 6 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
 2
Desperado Chuteout
Trad 5 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Machete Direct
 25
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b A1 R Trad, Sport, Aid 6 pitches
Machete Direct - Free
 2
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R Trad 6 pitches
Daedalus
 1
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C0 R Trad, Aid 5 pitches
Bill's Bad Bolts
 8
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A1 Sport, Aid 3 pitches
Rock Around the Clock
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1 Sport, Aid 2 pitches
Lucky 13 -to- GP Headwall -…
 11
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b A0 Sport, Aid 6 pitches
Los Banditos
 6
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A1 Trad, Aid
Proteus
 7
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport 4 pitches
West Face
 1
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A1 R Trad, Aid
Pigeon Crack
 1
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X Trad
Robots of Dawn
 8
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Son of Dawn Wall
 27
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A0-1 PG13 Trad, Sport, Aid 4 pitches
Sons of the West
 3
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C0 Trad, Aid 6 pitches
Icarus
 1
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 R Trad, Aid 6 pitches
Desperado Chuteout
 2
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R Trad 5 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Condors and Cole
[Hide Photo] Condors and Cole

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Isaac Leija
Salinas, CA
[Hide Comment] Note: A cantaloupe-sized hold broke off Redline on Sunday, November 30th, 2025. The hold was within the first few moves off the starting anchor, approximately 5–6 feet up. Dec 5, 2025