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Proteus
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 2.9 from 7
votes
Routes in Main Face
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Bill's Bad Bolts S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A1 |
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Daedalus T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C0 R |
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Desperado Chuteout T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Icarus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 R |
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Los Banditos T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A1 |
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Lucky 13 -to- GP Headwall -to- Rock Around the Clock S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b A0 |
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Machete Direct T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b A1 R |
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Machete Direct - Free T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R |
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Pigeon Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X |
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Proteus S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Robots of Dawn S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Rock Around the Clock S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1 |
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Son of Dawn Wall T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A0-1 PG13 |
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Sons of the West T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C0 |
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West Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A1 R |
| Type: | Sport, 450 ft (136 m), 4 pitches |
| GPS: | 36.49775, -121.20224 |
| FA: | Cole Ingamells, Marco Conci 12/21/25 |
| Page Views: | 516 total · 73/month |
| Shared By: | Marco Conci on Jan 23, 2026 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Bruce Hildenbrand, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Current Raptor Advisories for Pinnacles National Park nps.gov/pinn/planyourvisit/…
and
pinnacles.org/climbing_info…
Closures effective as of the day after Martin Luther King Day- July 3. Check closure website for details on closed areas.
SPECIAL NOTICE: Condors have been establishing nests at the Pinnacles National Monument. Since condors develop to fledgling more slowly than raptors and vultures closures due to condor nesting is extended past the usual Martin Luther King Day to July 3rd. Again, please check the "Current Raptor Advisory" section of the NPS website and/or the Friends of Pinnacles website for current closures.
As of July 2024 there are three active Condor nests at Pinnacles National Park.
The Machete Ridge area is closed from Pigeon Crack on west face then west around the south side to The Hideout including the popular Old Original.
All climbing routes at Crowley Towers are closed.
All routes on the Yaks and Yaks Wall plus Marauder.
Description
P1 5.8 50 ft 6 bolts - First 3 bolts traverse directly right from Los banditos P1 anchor, fun immediate exposure. 3 more bolts up and right on good rock.
P2 5.11d 95 ft 11 bolts - The money pitch. 5.8 or easier moves before reaching the first bulge. First bulge goes at 11b and second bulge 11d followed by some low 5.10 climbing for the next 2 closely spaced bolts. There are nice no hands rests in between bulges. Recommend extending bolt 5 for rope drag management.
P3 5.9 215 feet 10 bolts - Fun climbing, if you like long moderate pitches more than technical boulders then this is the money pitch. Well protected crux between bolt 4-5, gradually more runout as climbing eases
P4 5.2 95 ft 2 bolts - Mossy but good rock. Head directly up from the anchor to a bolt. At this point head up and right to the next bolt and eventually the anchors. There are many knob slinging opportunities on this pitch if you want more pro.
Location
Approach:
Approach the climb by doing the first pitch of Los Banditos (5.9 A0).
The quickest way of getting to Los Banditos is typically P1 of the West Face (~5.4 and 4 bolts of A0). Approach West Face by doing a 3rd class ramp to the left of Crackaphobia and SODW.
Though you could do a number of other routes instead of West Face to approach Los Banditos. Including Bandits in Bondage + Bandits Continuation which would add two pitches of 5.11 climbing.
Descent:
Once at the P4 anchors you have a few options for descent, either:
-Shorter (potentially more hiking, only one rap): Go one pitch south (5.5), this will get you to the top anchors of Son of Dawn Wall/ P2 of Old Original. From there rap off the east face (one rap from shorter side) and walk down. Walk includes heading slightly uphill a gullly, heading south towards the citadel. After about 100 feet you should reach the start of Old Original. Reverse the Old Original approach from there.
-Longer (more raps): Continue north (towards Balconies/caves) on Old Original with the opportunity to do the standard Machete descent or rap down Rock Around the Clock.
All descent options are possible with a single 60m however you likely are already carrying a 70m due to P3 length of Proteus.
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