Icarus

Icarus is the quintessential Pinnacles route; each pitch will test the unique skills developed climbing in the park in a different way.  While the line is not quite a classic, its spectacular position on the largest face in the park, historic first ascensionists, and adventurous reputation make the route well worth-while for the Pinnacles enthusiast.  

Originally rated 5.8 by hardmen Denny and Colliver, my partner and I did not feel this to be an accurate representation of the route.  A serious endeavor, expect loose rock, dubious protection, thin nailing, and anchors that leave something to be desired.

Pitch 1:  Begin on uncharacteristically solid rock up a pocketed crack beneath an oak tree (which makes for a nice hold).  Above the tree, the rock quickly turns to kitty litter.  Move right as the angle lessens to protect both yourself and your belayer to a three bolt belay beneath the steep bolt ladder.  Singles to 3 inches will suffice.  5.9 50ft

Pitch 2:  Break out the aiders and ascend the reachy bolt ladder comprised of both rivets and more modern bolts.  Denny was tall, you may have to supplement a small cam between the bolts to reach.  When the ladder ends, bust some 5.9 free moves out of your aiders up and right, past 2 more bolts and a gear placement.  Belay at 2 fixed pins backed up by some cams in a low angle crack.  A0 5.9 R 90ft

Pitch 3:  The aid crux.  Begin by free climbing up to the first bulge, then ascend the seam however you can.  A few fixed pins make things easier.  A mix of free and aid will get you past a couple of bulges until the seam ends.  Look out for a rusted star dryvin on your right, and make some lichen-y 5.7 free moves left above a large pocket.  Belay beneath the V-slot at a single modern bolt backed up by a cam or two ~10 feet above.  A3 5.7 120ft

Pitch 4:  Climb the V-slot past a crux bulge over a horizontal gash.  Protect this pitch with gear in the back of the V.  We found this pitch to be the most fun on the route.  Climb to a bolted anchor out right just before the V ends.  5.9 120ft

Pitch 5:  Climb past mostly modern bolts up the somewhat dirty slab.  Don't forget to turn around and enjoy your position on one of the coolest faces in the park!  Pull a bulge and shoot for the massive flake above.  Another good pitch!  Belay at bolts under the flake.  5.8 180ft

Pitch 6:  Tunnel to the right of the flake up very easy terrain.  Clip the anchors and take in the glory summit!  4th class 45ft

IMPORTANT NOTICE: since 2018 a pair of condors has been trying to nest on the south end of Machete Ridge. When this happens all routes including Pigeon Crack and extending west and south and around to The Hideout on the south face which includes Old Original are closed. More information is located here:

https://www.nps.gov/pinn/planyourvisit/advisory.htm

Icarus climbs a weakness up the imposing south end of Machete Ridge's west face.  Approach as for Son of Dawn Wall, but continue along the climbers trail up and right for another couple hundred feet.  Icarus begins up a discontinuous, pocketed crack under an oak tree.  Look for the pitch 2 bolt ladder above to ensure you are on the correct route.

Cams to 3 inches and a set of stoppers. A few #2 and #3 beaks and some LAs will get you up the seam. ~10 draws for the bolt ladder.