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Routes in The Yaks

Don't Talk Back T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Liebacker's Lullaby T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
North Yak Northwest Face S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shoot the Tube T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Splatter Matt S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Split Infinity S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tato Pani T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 240 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Rupert Kammerlander, Craig Mackay 1/1973
Page Views: 3,858 total, 79/month
Shared By: powderfinger on Dec 17, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

A three pitch all gear protected crack climb at Pinnacles? Yep, hard to believe but it exists and it's pretty dang fun. So if you have friends that think all the climbing at Pinnacles is face climbing with bolts drag them up to this route.

Pitch 1) Climb up a 5.6 chimney/gulley with twin cracks taking care not to pull down any loose stuff. When the cracks stop and the lichen appears traverse left across reddish colored rock and do a step across move. Continue up through the tree to a good ledge with a fixed piton.

Pitch 2) Start liebacking (5.8) up the corner with the wide crack. Continue to a small ledge underneath a wide orangish crack/roof with a lot of Condor poop. Belay here on large cams

Pitch3) Traverse out right on the face to avoid standing on the rotten loose poop covered rock and then cut back left into the corner and follow the sweet 5.7 lieback to the top!

Pitch 2 and 3 are both short enough that is feasible to link them with 60 meter rope. This might require a little thought w/extending placements with slings and extra cams.

Location

Route is located on the Yaks Wall Right. A good land mark is a large tree at the base of a small buttress/pinnacle with a smaller tree on top. Route starts in chimney up the gulley to the right of the tree.

Walk off to the North.

Protection

standard single rack to 5" with doubles in 2"-3"
small to medium tri-cams could be useful in the holes on the second pitch.
First pitch belay has a fixed piton. 3 bolt anchor at the top of the climb.

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