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Routes in Discovery Wall
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Between a Rock and a Hard Place S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Big Pucker, The T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Broken Arrow S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Broken Arrow (Direct) S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Buffalo Soldier T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Bye-Bye Fly-By T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Cleft, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Cosmos S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Dead Bird Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Entrance T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fly By T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Forty Days of Rain T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Gladiator T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Holiday Ordeal TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Jorgie's Continuation T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Jorgie's Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Labor of Love T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Lithium S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Lost Horizons T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mammary Pump S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Melvin S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Nailbox Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ordeal T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Passover T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Pistol Whipped S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Plague T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Portent T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Power Point S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Racing Stripes T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Roof, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Straight Up T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Stupendous Man S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Swallow Crack T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Trauma T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Trial S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Verdict (direct), The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Wet Kiss, The S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Jim "the Bird" Bridwell and Craig Little 10/1965 FFA: Mark Chapman and Ed Barry 1/73 |
| Page Views: | 291 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Bruce Hildenbrand on Mar 31, 2021 |
| Admins: | andy patterson, Aron Quiter, Bruce Hildenbrand, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Current Raptor Advisories for Pinnacles National Park nps.gov/pinn/planyourvisit/…
and
pinnacles.org/climbing_info…
Closures effective as of the day after Martin Luther King Day- July 3. Check closure website for details on closed areas.
SPECIAL NOTICE: due to nesting condors the Machete Ridge area may be closed, from Dos Equis / Corona on west face then west around the south side to The Hideout including the popular Old Original. Check the NPS and Friends of Pinnacles websites for further information.
Description
There are much better routes on Discovery Wall, but if you haven't ticked this one, maybe it's time. The problem is that the crux is at the very end of the pitch and the protection, from small cams, is, well, er, uh, less than inspiring. The chains are oh, so close, but oh, so far away.
Start below the large right facing dihedral with a crack and climb up it on moderate terrain, cams for protection, to the roof. Traverse right under the roof using a finger-sized crack for protection. One or two fixed pins may be found along the way, but as with any fixed pins at the Pinns they are to be treated with care lest they fall out into your hands.
Get as good as gear as possible for the moves at end of the traverse to the chains. The original ascent continued past the chains to the top of the wall.
Location
This is at the right(northern) end of Discovery Wall. It is easily recognized from the junction of the High Peaks Trail with the trail which accesses Discovery Wall by the large right facing dihedral capped by a tremendous roof. The chains at the end of the route should be visible from the ground.
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