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Routes in Discovery Wall
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Between a Rock and a Hard Place S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Big Pucker, The T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Broken Arrow S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Broken Arrow (Direct) S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Buffalo Soldier T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Bye-Bye Fly-By T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Cleft, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Cosmos S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Dead Bird Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Entrance T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fly By T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Forty Days of Rain T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Gladiator T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Holiday Ordeal TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Jorgie's Continuation T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Jorgie's Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Jorgie's On Crack T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Labor of Love T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Lithium S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Lost Horizons T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mammary Pump S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Melvin S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mustache T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a A3 |
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Nailbox Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ordeal T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Passover T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Pillbox Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Pistol Whipped S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Plague T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Portent T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Power Point S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Racing Stripes T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Roof, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Slot, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Straight Up T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Stupendous Man S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Swallow Crack T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Trauma T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Trial S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Verdict (direct), The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Wet Kiss, The S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Zippity Do Da S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 36.4759, -121.18616 |
| FA: | Jim "the Bird" Bridwell and Craig Little 10/1965 FFA: Mark Chapman and Ed Barry 1/73 |
| Page Views: | 605 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Bruce Hildenbrand on Mar 31, 2021 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Bruce Hildenbrand, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Current Raptor Advisories for Pinnacles National Park nps.gov/pinn/planyourvisit/…
and
pinnacles.org/climbing_info…
Closures effective as of the day after Martin Luther King Day- July 3. Check closure website for details on closed areas.
SPECIAL NOTICE: Condors have been establishing nests at the Pinnacles National Monument. Since condors develop to fledgling more slowly than raptors and vultures closures due to condor nesting is extended past the usual Martin Luther King Day to July 3rd. Again, please check the "Current Raptor Advisory" section of the NPS website and/or the Friends of Pinnacles website for current closures.
As of July 2024 there are three active Condor nests at Pinnacles National Park.
The Machete Ridge area is closed from Pigeon Crack on west face then west around the south side to The Hideout including the popular Old Original.
All climbing routes at Crowley Towers are closed.
All routes on the Yaks and Yaks Wall plus Marauder.
Description
There are much better routes on Discovery Wall, but if you haven't ticked this one, maybe it's time. The problem is that the crux is at the very end of the pitch and the protection, from small cams, is, well, er, uh, less than inspiring. The chains are oh, so close, but oh, so far away.
Start below the large right facing dihedral with a crack and climb up it on moderate terrain, cams for protection, to the roof. Traverse right under the roof using a finger-sized crack for protection. One or two fixed pins may be found along the way, but as with any fixed pins at the Pinns they are to be treated with care lest they fall out into your hands.
Get as good as gear as possible for the moves at end of the traverse to the chains. The original ascent continued past the chains to the top of the wall.
Location
This is at the right(northern) end of Discovery Wall. It is easily recognized from the junction of the High Peaks Trail with the trail which accesses Discovery Wall by the large right facing dihedral capped by a tremendous roof. The chains at the end of the route should be visible from the ground.
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