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Routes in Discovery Wall
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Between a Rock and a Hard Place S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Big Pucker, The T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Broken Arrow S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Broken Arrow (Direct) S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Buffalo Soldier T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Bye-Bye Fly-By T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Cleft, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Cosmos S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Dead Bird Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Entrance T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fly By T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Forty Days of Rain T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Gladiator T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Holiday Ordeal TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Jorgie's Continuation T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Jorgie's Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Jorgie's On Crack T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Labor of Love T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Lithium S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Lost Horizons T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mammary Pump S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Melvin S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mustache T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a A3 |
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Nailbox Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ordeal T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Passover T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Pillbox Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Pistol Whipped S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Plague T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Portent T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Power Point S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Racing Stripes T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Roof, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Slot, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Straight Up T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Stupendous Man S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Swallow Crack T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Trauma T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Trial S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Verdict (direct), The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Wet Kiss, The S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Zippity Do Da S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| GPS: | 36.4759, -121.18616 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,140 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Steve R. on Feb 5, 2009 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Bruce Hildenbrand, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Current Raptor Advisories for Pinnacles National Park nps.gov/pinn/planyourvisit/…
and
pinnacles.org/climbing_info…
Closures effective as of the day after Martin Luther King Day- July 3. Check closure website for details on closed areas.
SPECIAL NOTICE: Condors have been establishing nests at the Pinnacles National Monument. Since condors develop to fledgling more slowly than raptors and vultures closures due to condor nesting is extended past the usual Martin Luther King Day to July 3rd. Again, please check the "Current Raptor Advisory" section of the NPS website and/or the Friends of Pinnacles website for current closures.
As of July 2024 there are three active Condor nests at Pinnacles National Park.
The Machete Ridge area is closed from Pigeon Crack on west face then west around the south side to The Hideout including the popular Old Original.
All climbing routes at Crowley Towers are closed.
All routes on the Yaks and Yaks Wall plus Marauder.
Description
Dead Bird Crack is a great little trad climb that starts at the base of Fly By but instead of going up the crack it traverses across left towards a roof. Low angle traverse is thin and protected only by a small nut placement (extend!). Once in the roof there are plenty of options for small to medium cams but make sure to extend your pieces or you'll end up with crazy rope drag. The moves out of the roof are pumpy but keep moving and you'll find solid stances ahead. Continue to follow the obvious features up and left.
At one point you may think, "do I pull over this bomber bulge, clip the bolt and climb straight up to the anchor or do I keep following the crack up/left?" If this is tempting, be aware that this is the 5.10 variation. For the 5.9 finish keep following the crack left, past a piton and run out some 5.6 at the end to a nice happy set of bolt anchors, climber's right. Here you can comfortably belay your partner while seated in a little two-butt sized pocket in the rock. The comfort comes in handy when (s)he yells "TAKE!" after missing the first attempt at the crux you kissed your cams before pumping through.
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