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Routes in Discovery Wall

Between a Rock and a Hard Place S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Big Pucker, The T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Broken Arrow S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Broken Arrow (Direct) S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Buffalo Soldier T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bye-Bye Fly-By T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Cleft, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cosmos S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dead Bird Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Entrance T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fat Lips T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fly By T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Holiday Ordeal TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jorgie's Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lithium S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lost Horizons T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mammary Pump S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Melvin S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nailbox Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ordeal T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pistol Whipped S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Plague T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Portent T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Power Point S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Racing Stripes T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Straight Up T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Stupendous Man T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Swallow Crack T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Trauma T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trial S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Verdict (direct), The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wet Kiss, The S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 728 total, 7/month
Shared By: Steve R. on Feb 5, 2009
Admins: Aron Quiter, andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Dead Bird Crack is a great little trad climb that starts at the base of Fly By but instead of going up the crack it traverses across left towards a roof. Low angle traverse is thin and protected only by a small nut placement (extend!). Once in the roof there are plenty of options for small to medium cams but make sure to extend your pieces or you'll end up with crazy rope drag. The moves out of the roof are pumpy but keep moving and you'll find solid stances ahead. Continue to follow the obvious features up and left.

At one point you may think, "do I pull over this bomber bulge, clip the bolt and climb straight up to the anchor or do I keep following the crack up/left?" If this is tempting, be aware that this is the 5.10 variation. For the 5.9 finish keep following the crack left, past a piton and run out some 5.6 at the end to a nice happy set of bolt anchors, climber's right. Here you can comfortably belay your partner while seated in a little two-butt sized pocket in the rock. The comfort comes in handy when (s)he yells "TAKE!" after missing the first attempt at the crux you kissed your cams before pumping through.

Location

Middle of Discovery Wall. Start is same as Fly By

Protection

small to 2" maybe 3", one fixed piton, two bolt anchor at top

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