Type: Trad, TR, 120 ft
FA: Andrew Emery, Steve Roper
Page Views: 10,077 total · 45/month
Shared By: mungeclimber on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Aron Quiter, andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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128 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

For the moderate climber this is one of THE routes to do at Pinnacles. Long, fun and airy at the top. It is possible to TR the first part of the route off of some midway anchors, but is not really recommended because this route sees a lot of traffic.

Protection

This classic has some run spots on easier ground. The first moves can be protected with .75 camalot or so sized piece and some small cam placements in a horizontal above that.
Aron Quiter
Oakland, CA
Aron Quiter   Oakland, CA  
If you take the caves trail and head through the first cave, as the path leads up towards Discovery Wall and either heads to a fork where you can either go back to the right parallel with the rock, or runs into it, Portent is the route in the first small dip that follows this dip up and left to a pair of rusty anchors that can be seen about 70 feet off the ground. Jul 16, 2003
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
I didn't think that this route deserves more than 1*. I actually thought it was kind of a pile! Sep 25, 2006
Lisa E
  5.6 R
Lisa E  
  5.6 R
Most of this route is quite easy, although the start is the crux and is harder than 5.6. I like the traverse, very airy and fun. Mar 29, 2007
rafael
Berkeley, CA
  5.6 R
rafael   Berkeley, CA
  5.6 R
EDIT: a few years ago a key hold on the start busted loose, now I think it goes at 5.8 about 3 feet off the deck
I think it is 5.6, the start is not protected, but that doesnt make it harder. The pinnacles rock is weak though. Jan 9, 2010
FYI you cannot rappel from the top of this route (the bolts do not have rings). The walk off is uphill, then straight back to the main trail (there are some climber access signs). Turn right and follow that trail around until you get back to the base of Discovery wall.

Also, don't bother taking gear beyond the very start; there is no gear after the bolts start (and they are fairly far apart). Jun 3, 2013
Brad Young
  5.6 R
Brad Young  
  5.6 R
I'm not sure that Felix is using the words "sport climb" like most climbers use them. As I've understood that term (since it came into use in the 1980s) it means a closely bolted route. Stated another way, the phrase does not apply to just any bolted route, it applies to one where the bolts are specifically quite close together.

Portent is a bolted route - the only possible gear would be used within 10 feet of the ground. But it is most certainly not a "sport route" (as the many "R" ratings given in this thread would seem to confirm). Feb 12, 2014
Isaiah Foulks
Monterey
 
Isaiah Foulks   Monterey
 
Can be climbed in one long pitch, with minimal rope drag! Solo up to the first "anchor" and extend one of the bolts with a double runner... kepp leading and extend all the next bolts with single runners, and then use another double runner on the bolt just before the left-ward traverse. No need to extend on last bolt. No rope drag! Sep 11, 2017
Grumpy Gym Climber  
  5.6 R
The beta for this route is definitely lacking. The route starts in the crack and then veers left near the first anchor. The bolts are spaced pretty far apart and there is no other places for gear. The route is NOT supposed to follow the crack all of the way up. Doing the crack/seam all of the way up is possible and can be protected, but it is certainly not 5.6. Not sure that the route up the crack/seam is named/rated but if not, perhaps it should be since many people end up climb it. Nov 20, 2017
David Dentry
San Francisco, CA
David Dentry   San Francisco, CA
Nice, fun route.

It took a while to actually find the route, with so many lines running up this wall... The guidebook seemed to show that the climber access trail comes up to the left of the actual route, but in reality the mid-wall climber access trail arrives pretty much directly in front of the route.

Definitely stay to the left after getting up past the start, especially the bulge just before the second set of chains. We climbed the first two pitches and set at anchor on the second set of chains and top roped from there for the kids.


Start and bulge just before second anchor feel harder than 5.6, but that's just me. Mar 14, 2019