Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 979 total · 14/month
Shared By: Johnny Y on Mar 24, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Climb up to the base of the corner on an easy but unprotected ramp. Work your way up the corner to the bottom of the roof, take care to place good pro in the crack (hand to finger size). Traverse out left on good underclings and exit the roof to a nice mantel. Face climb to the top, a bit runout but it's on easier ground.

Location

The left facing corner to the right of Wet Kiss

Protection

Cams from 0.4" to 3", one set of nuts
3 bolt anchor at the top

Photos

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ElGreco
  5.8+ R
ElGreco  
  5.8+ R
This route is heads-up, even though the climbing felt easier than 5.9 to me. If you are getting into trad leading, skip this one for now. Getting to the first bolt requires a substantial runout on rock that's very loose in places. After that bolt (which is off to the right - clip it with a long sling), it's you and the crack, which although perfectly climbable and made easier by good stemming opportunities, does not inspire confidence in terms of protection. It's wavy, and cam opportunities are not as good as Jorgie's crack, for example. Nuts go in well, but good luck trusting them - the lip is thin in places. Remember that this is not granite, sew it up, and DON'T FALL. After the traverse out left, you have a long runout to the top again on easier and chossier terrain again. If you mess up, you are relying on your traverse cams waaay down there, and hoping they will hold. You would also pendulum. In my view this route is R-rated, it not worse. Climb it if you want to prove to yourself that you can sack up on easy but scary terrain. If you're clever, I recommend climbing something bolted and saving your gear for granite. Or at the very least Jorgie's crack next door, which felt more strenuous but also less sketchy. Apr 27, 2015
David S.
San Francisco, CA
 
David S.   San Francisco, CA
 
This would be 3 star if the starting 30' weren't so chossy and covered in pigeon poo.

Agree with some of the previous comments that the runout after completing the traverse (airy and great, by the way!) is pretty heady. I placed a single .5 BD C4 after gaining the face after the runout, but it still felt spooky. Keep your wits about you after exiting the traverse! May 7, 2017