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Routes in Discovery Wall

Between a Rock and a Hard Place S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Big Pucker, The T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Broken Arrow S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Broken Arrow (Direct) S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Buffalo Soldier T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bye-Bye Fly-By T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Cleft, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cosmos S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dead Bird Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Entrance T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fat Lips T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fly By T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Holiday Ordeal TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jorgie's Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lithium S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lost Horizons T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mammary Pump S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Melvin S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nailbox Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ordeal T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pistol Whipped S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Plague T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Portent T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Power Point S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Racing Stripes T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Straight Up T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Stupendous Man T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Swallow Crack T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Trauma T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trial S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Verdict (direct), The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wet Kiss, The S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 865 total, 18/month
Shared By: aaron hope on Dec 29, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a really fun climb. The protection is good except for the runout to the first bolt. The book calls the runout 5.5, but I think most folks would find it even easier and secure. The hard stuff comes after the second bolt and remains fairly sustained until you cross over the arête. Good stemming allows for some rests.

Location

Go up the obvious slab, around the corner from Ordeal and Buffalo Soldier. The slab is to the left of the Verdict.

After the fifth bolt, traverse left around the arête. Once you hit the arête, the holds are big and cozy. The latest guide book directs you to clip the bolt around the arête on Buffalo Solider and going straight up from there. However, the rope drag gets really bad if you do this and I recommend going up on the arête on big holds and reaching out right to clip the last bolt on the direct variation and then going straight up from there.

Protection

6 bolts

Photos

Mei
Mei  
In my observation, people tend to underestimate this route (despite the bailout variation).

Beta: the two anchor bolts (shared by Buffalo Soldier and Here Comes the Judge) are way back (10 feet?) on the ground. If top roping setup is intended, bring long cordelette so the directional anchor is over the edge. Jan 30, 2017