Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,452 total · 22/month
Shared By: aaron hope on Dec 29, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


25 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a really fun climb. The protection is good except for the runout to the first bolt. The book calls the runout 5.5, but I think most folks would find it even easier and secure. The hard stuff comes after the second bolt and remains fairly sustained until you cross over the arête. Good stemming allows for some rests.

Location

Go up the obvious slab, around the corner from Ordeal and Buffalo Soldier. The slab is to the left of the Verdict.

After the fifth bolt, traverse left around the arête. Once you hit the arête, the holds are big and cozy. The latest guide book directs you to clip the bolt around the arête on Buffalo Solider and going straight up from there. However, the rope drag gets really bad if you do this and I recommend going up on the arête on big holds and reaching out right to clip the last bolt on the direct variation and then going straight up from there.

Protection

6 bolts

Photos

In my observation, people tend to underestimate this route (despite the bailout variation).

Beta: the two anchor bolts (shared by Buffalo Soldier and Here Comes the Judge) are way back (10 feet?) on the ground. If top roping setup is intended, bring long cordelette so the directional anchor is over the edge. Jan 30, 2017
Spencer Maroukis
Sacramento, CA
 
Spencer Maroukis   Sacramento, CA
 
Really enjoyed this one. I also recommend after the fifth bolt traversing to the arete, going up and then clipping the direct route's bolt on the right (I did it with an extension), and going straight up from there. Dec 23, 2017
Trevor Bloom  
 
This is an awesome route, had my attention the entire time. You're definitely going to want to walk off this one. Jan 2, 2018