Type: Sport, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Mike Carville 9/1986
Page Views: 1,950 total · 24/month
Shared By: aaron hope on Dec 29, 2013
Admins: andy patterson, Aron Quiter, Bruce Hildenbrand, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a really fun climb. The protection is good except for the runout to the first bolt. The book calls the runout 5.5, but I think most folks would find it even easier and secure. The hard stuff comes after the second bolt and remains fairly sustained until you cross over the arête. Good stemming allows for some rests.

Location

Go up the obvious slab, around the corner from Ordeal and Buffalo Soldier. The slab is to the left of the Verdict.

After the fifth bolt, traverse left around the arête. Once you hit the arête, the holds are big and cozy. The latest guide book directs you to clip the bolt around the arête on Buffalo Solider and going straight up from there. However, the rope drag gets really bad if you do this and I recommend going up on the arête on big holds and reaching out right to clip the last bolt on the direct variation and then going straight up from there.

Protection

6 bolts

Photos