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Routes in Discovery Wall
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Between a Rock and a Hard Place S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Big Pucker, The T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Broken Arrow S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Broken Arrow (Direct) S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Buffalo Soldier T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Bye-Bye Fly-By T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Cleft, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Cosmos S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Dead Bird Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Entrance T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fly By T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Forty Days of Rain T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Gladiator T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Holiday Ordeal TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Jorgie's Continuation T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Jorgie's Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Jorgie's On Crack T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Labor of Love T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Lithium S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Lost Horizons T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mammary Pump S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Melvin S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mustache T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a A3 |
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Nailbox Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ordeal T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Passover T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Pillbox Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Pistol Whipped S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Plague T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Portent T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Power Point S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Racing Stripes T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Roof, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Slot, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Straight Up T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Stupendous Man S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Swallow Crack T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Trauma T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Trial S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Verdict (direct), The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Wet Kiss, The S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Zippity Do Da S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Mike Carville 9/1986 |
| Page Views: | 3,440 total · 25/month |
| Shared By: | Aaron Hope on Dec 29, 2013 |
| Admins: | andy patterson, Aron Quiter, Bruce Hildenbrand, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Always check this web page before you visit for current conditions and nesting closures:
Current Raptor Advisories for Pinnacles National Park nps.gov/pinn/planyourvisit/…
and
pinnacles.org/climbing_info…
Closures effective as of the day after Martin Luther King Day- July 3. Check closure website for details on closed areas.
SPECIAL NOTICE: Condors have been establishing nests at the Pinnacles National Monument. Since condors develop to fledgling more slowly than raptors and vultures closures due to condor nesting is extended past the usual Martin Luther King Day to July 3rd. Again, please check the "Current Raptor Advisory" section of the NPS website and/or the Friends of Pinnacles website for current closures.
As of July 2024 there are three active Condor nests at Pinnacles National Park.
The Machete Ridge area is closed from Pigeon Crack on west face then west around the south side to The Hideout including the popular Old Original.
All climbing routes at Crowley Towers are closed.
All routes on the Yaks and Yaks Wall plus Marauder.
Current Raptor Advisories for Pinnacles National Park nps.gov/pinn/planyourvisit/…
and
pinnacles.org/climbing_info…
Closures effective as of the day after Martin Luther King Day- July 3. Check closure website for details on closed areas.
SPECIAL NOTICE: Condors have been establishing nests at the Pinnacles National Monument. Since condors develop to fledgling more slowly than raptors and vultures closures due to condor nesting is extended past the usual Martin Luther King Day to July 3rd. Again, please check the "Current Raptor Advisory" section of the NPS website and/or the Friends of Pinnacles website for current closures.
As of July 2024 there are three active Condor nests at Pinnacles National Park.
The Machete Ridge area is closed from Pigeon Crack on west face then west around the south side to The Hideout including the popular Old Original.
All climbing routes at Crowley Towers are closed.
All routes on the Yaks and Yaks Wall plus Marauder.
Description
This is a really fun climb. The protection is good except for the runout to the first bolt. The book calls the runout 5.5, but I think most folks would find it even easier and secure. The hard stuff comes after the second bolt and remains fairly sustained until you cross over the arête. Good stemming allows for some rests.
Location
Go up the obvious slab, around the corner from Ordeal and Buffalo Soldier. The slab is to the left of the Verdict.
After the fifth bolt, traverse left around the arête. Once you hit the arête, the holds are big and cozy. The latest guide book directs you to clip the bolt around the arête on Buffalo Solider and going straight up from there. However, the rope drag gets really bad if you do this and I recommend going up on the arête on big holds and reaching out right to clip the last bolt on the direct variation and then going straight up from there.
After the fifth bolt, traverse left around the arête. Once you hit the arête, the holds are big and cozy. The latest guide book directs you to clip the bolt around the arête on Buffalo Solider and going straight up from there. However, the rope drag gets really bad if you do this and I recommend going up on the arête on big holds and reaching out right to clip the last bolt on the direct variation and then going straight up from there.
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