Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: Barry Bates, Dave Hampton FFA 12/70
Page Views: 3,174 total · 25/month
Shared By: Ian Walters on Dec 31, 2008
Admins: Aron Quiter, andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


71 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Jorgie's is the very chalked up arching thin crack in between Swallow Crack and Ordeal, some ways down the right side of the Disco Wall. It takes relatively good gear, and packs in some great climbing in its relatively short length. The crux comes as the crack begins to peter out, with a tenuous, off-balance move left.

Protection

Thin to medium gear. Two-bolt anchor

Photos

daniel c
San Francisco, CA
  5.9
daniel c   San Francisco, CA
  5.9
Goes 5.9 in the book, a rating that I agree with. Bring nuts and small cams. Piton about two thirds of the way-up helps. Sustained. A great climb but can be greasy from traffic Oct 10, 2009
aaron hope
Walnut Creek, CA
aaron hope   Walnut Creek, CA
I used holds on the sides and stemmed around the crack to pull myself up, rest, and place gear...made it feel much easier than 10a. Maybe it's 5.9/10a if you only use the crack? Fun climb, either way. Aug 10, 2010
Randy
Lassitude 33
  5.8+
Randy   Lassitude 33
  5.8+
Fun, but short. 5.9 at most if you use the face holds. Apr 27, 2011
The arete just to the left of Jorgie's Crack goes free at 5.11. Top rope using Jorgie's Crack anchors. Exciting. Nov 26, 2011
Jorgie's Crack is short. However, after clipping the anchor bolts, the leader can choose to continue left and then up to top out on Jorgie's Continuation. (Note, there are also closely spaced bolts going up and right, but that line is not what I'm talking about). After two or three more clips, now, the climber has no where to go but up and over a bulge. The new guidebook rightly calls it wildly exposed. It's rated 10b I think, and the tricky moves are protected by a bolt, but still, be solid at at least high 10's so you can enjoy the excitement. After one more bolt, you gun for the top long ways up. Look for nearby anchor bolts on the ground at the top. Jan 30, 2017
Kim Harrison  
 
I followed this route on two pitches. For the second pitch, the crux was the move going from the anchor to the right, following 3 closely placed bolts. But as a follow, the moves at the top are the most exposed. Going up after the three bolts, you can traverse right or left, and opportunities for solid pro dwindle making the final traverse runout but its an easy traverse to the left. Nov 5, 2017
rafael
Berkeley, CA
  5.9
rafael   Berkeley, CA
  5.9
Not 5.9+. Maybe if one isnt used to finger cracks. The stems keep it doable. Apr 16, 2018