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Routes in Discovery Wall

Between a Rock and a Hard Place S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Big Pucker, The T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Broken Arrow S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Broken Arrow (Direct) S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Buffalo Soldier T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bye-Bye Fly-By T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Cleft, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cosmos S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dead Bird Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Entrance T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fat Lips T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fly By T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Holiday Ordeal TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jorgie's Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lithium S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lost Horizons T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mammary Pump S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Melvin S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nailbox Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ordeal T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pistol Whipped S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Plague T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Portent T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Power Point S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Racing Stripes T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Straight Up T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Stupendous Man T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Swallow Crack T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Trauma T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trial S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Verdict (direct), The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wet Kiss, The S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Clint Cummins, Dennis Erik Strom 3/1992
Page Views: 677 total, 7/month
Shared By: Ian G. on May 10, 2009 with updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Two cruxes. Clip the first bolt and pull on to a ledge. After the second bolt climb and make a very tenuous third clip. Fight the pump and clip the fourth. LOTS of loose rock. Test everything before you commit to weighting it. Guidebook says "you can't see the anchors from the ground." Well, after clipping the fifth bolt, you've got another 35 feet of 5.6 climbing to the anchors. Easy but terrifying on crap rock like this. Options for dubious slung knobs exist but be prepared mentally for the final run up to the anchors.

Location

Left of Stupendous Man and right of The Cleft.

Protection

five bolts to rap rings.

Photos

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Austin Donisan
San Mateo, California
 
Austin Donisan   San Mateo, California
 
There is a quick link on the last bolt if you want to bail before the runout. Feb 16, 2016
Kyle Queener
Bishop, California
 
Kyle Queener   Bishop, California
 
FA: Clint Cummis, Dennis Erik Strom 3/1992

If you see either of these names in the FA section of the guide then you know what to expect. Bold and classic Pinnacles climbing. Apr 27, 2015
First ascent is by the fabulous and slightly madcap Clint Cummins, which explains the runout at the top.

And the first bulge is super tough for short people, but doable with the manky little right-hand sidepull. Jan 12, 2015
Mike Tsuji
Boulder, CO
 
Mike Tsuji   Boulder, CO
 
Climbed this with Adam, once you're above the last bolt the route trends slightly right on the better looking holds. I went left at first and got into an area where it was clear people had been pulling off chunks of rock. Not a great place to be when you're going to hit the deck if a hold breaks. May 27, 2013
adam14113
San Francisco, CA
adam14113   San Francisco, CA
I did the climb yesterday .. the run out section needs a bolt due to decking potential. May 26, 2013
ascender30  
 
Concur that the lower section is tough, but fun. Yet the runout to anchors, although easy 5.6, is on typically VERY suspect Pinnacles. Any slip off this un-protected section, and you would scrape (painfully) down and over the bulge, then fall to the ground no matter what your belayer did. Why not put a bolt about half-way through this runout?

I wouldn't repeat the climb. Feb 21, 2011