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Routes in Discovery Wall

Between a Rock and a Hard Place S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Big Pucker, The T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Broken Arrow S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Broken Arrow (Direct) S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Buffalo Soldier T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bye-Bye Fly-By T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Cleft, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cosmos S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dead Bird Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Entrance T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fat Lips T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fly By T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Holiday Ordeal TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jorgie's Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lithium S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lost Horizons T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mammary Pump S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Melvin S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nailbox Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ordeal T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pistol Whipped S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Plague T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Portent T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Power Point S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Racing Stripes T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Straight Up T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Stupendous Man T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Swallow Crack T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Trauma T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trial S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Verdict (direct), The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wet Kiss, The S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, TR, 60 ft
FA: David Rubine and Kelly Rich, 1998
Page Views: 7,745 total, 44/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Jul 11, 2003
Admins: Aron Quiter, andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This face route heads up a less than vertical section about 50 feet right of Portant (5.6) that faces the same direction of Portent.

Climb up to the bolted wide cracklike system that starts about 20 feet up from the path, and it's a simple slab walk up to the first bolt. For an added move, boulder over the first bulge on the way to the first bolt (still a 5.9.)

After the first bolt, use the crack to move over a short vertical section, and then follow the bolts up the crack system to a mantle move at the fourth bolt. Continue upwards, where climbing is easier to the top anchors, which are obscured from view from the ground.

Protection

6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. A small piece of pro can be added to the crack crux, which is after the first bolt.

Photos

Johnny Y
California
 
Johnny Y   California
 
The first bolt seems too high for short people, I could not reach it at all on a good stance, had to make half a move and clip the bolt while in an awkward position. Better to put in a small metolius down low and just don't bother with the 1st bolt. Mar 25, 2013
Keith Forest  
 
Try leading it without using the bolts. Mar 23, 2013
Jeff Dopp
Goodlettsville, TN
Jeff Dopp   Goodlettsville, TN
Bolted Crack!! In my humble opinion using trad gear in any crack at the Pinns is at best adventuresome...at worst silly, and this comes from someone who has watched more than a few stoppers spinning down the rope at me while dropping onto the last bolt. If there is any area where bolts next cracks is nice...this is it! Jan 27, 2008
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
I agree, Bruce, it's definitely not a bolted crack, despite the appearance in the photo above. The bolts are thoughtfully placed. Apr 5, 2006
I don't place a piece either. I was trying to point out that, given the first comment, that this is not a bolted crack. The first ascentionists allow the leader to place more protection if they feel they need it and didn't just put in a convenience bolt.

Bruce Apr 5, 2006
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
I've led Wet Kiss probably a half dozen times. Personally, I find that trying to fiddle in gear between the first and second bolts is more effort than it's worth. You make the crux move with a bolt at your waist. Apr 5, 2006
The route follows a crack that only takes protection in the one place mentioned in the route description. If you don't place a piece and rely on only the bolts you are risking a serious whipper if you fall.
This is not a bolted crack.

Bruce Apr 5, 2006
just a question - why bolt a crack??? Jan 27, 2004