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Routes in Discovery Wall

Between a Rock and a Hard Place S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Big Pucker, The T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Broken Arrow S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Broken Arrow (Direct) S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Buffalo Soldier T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bye-Bye Fly-By T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Cleft, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cosmos S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dead Bird Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Entrance T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fat Lips T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fly By T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Holiday Ordeal TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jorgie's Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lithium S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lost Horizons T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mammary Pump S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Melvin S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nailbox Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ordeal T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pistol Whipped S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Plague T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Portent T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Power Point S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Racing Stripes T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Straight Up T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Stupendous Man T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Swallow Crack T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Trauma T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trial S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Verdict (direct), The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wet Kiss, The S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,091 total · 8/month
Shared By: Darko Sarenac on Aug 31, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description [Edit]

This short bouldery climb seems difficult to rate. It moves through the roof to the right of Stupendous Man. David Rubine's book calls it 11d/12a but I've heard it called as low as 11a. It joins Stupendous Man at the fourth bolt, but most climbers stop at this bolt.

Protection [Edit]

Four bolts.

Photos

Aaron Formella
Atascadero, CA
  5.11c
Aaron Formella   Atascadero, CA
  5.11c
Definitely hard to rate this climb accurately. One dynamic move can get you past the crux. Very overhanging on the lower part of the route + very well protected by bolts = a safe fall on lead at the crux. Aug 16, 2009
aaron hope
Walnut Creek, CA
aaron hope   Walnut Creek, CA
I think if you have perfect beta at the crux and work it, you can make it feel like 10+ or 11a. If not, then it's much harder. Aug 31, 2010
Pythonist  
 
Two very different lines; one skirting the bolts, one straight up. The 11c/d line moves right across the first bolt to the side-crimp and dead-points the left hand. The 11a/b line moves from the good crimp right of the first bolt LEFT to the sloper, matches this, and moves up on the left side of the bolt line.

Personally, the left-hand version is more interesting than the right-hand, ignoring the grade difference, but each to their own... Bolts are perfectly placed and the top section of Stupendous Man is enjoyable either way. Mar 13, 2012
Stonebhikku
boulder, co
  5.11d
Stonebhikku   boulder, co
  5.11d
A one move wonder really, right of bolts move up from steepest point of wall through a couple jugs to a selection of pretty bad crimps which you use as you deadpoint a sloping ledge up left with your left hand. Dec 30, 2013
Tony Lobay  
 
11d if you follow the bolts. Dead point up the bolts is the hardest way. Slightly easier - use the furthest right pocket, knee-bar, then lie back the slopers up and clip the 2nd bolt. Either way you're clipping the 2nd bolt off the slopers.

11a if you TR the left side. Nov 28, 2016
rafael
Berkeley, CA
  5.11+ PG13
rafael   Berkeley, CA
  5.11+ PG13
the X block is loose (surprise surprise). Could come down the next time someone stomps it... be careful
PG13 because the block could kill a belayer and its very tempting to use
More stars if the route were longer. Fun to finish on stupendous man, adds to the pump Apr 16, 2018

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