Avg: 2.3 from 14 votes
|Type:||Sport, 40 ft (12 m)|
|FA:||bill bentley 1993|
|Page Views:||1,150 total · 7/month|
|Shared By:||Lee Hansche on Dec 15, 2008|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall|
Start on a huge jug just left of the start of Machine Head (5.11c/d). You won't get many more of these big holds so enjoy it. Make a long move off of a nice undercling to a good crimp. Let the games begin. Ultra technical moves on small crimps and invisible feet get you up the steep face using tiny sidepulls and gastons, and some fancy footwork. Then make a move left to a good rest at the halfway point. From here pull the roof using a really cool rung hold and get up on a really awkward ledge for a rest. The final section heads up a shallow groove and isn't bad after you figure out the feet and where the holds are.
The bottom and top are harder for shorties and the ledge rest is wicked awkward for tall people (serves us right I suppose).