Type: Sport
FA: Art Mooney 1994
Page Views: 361 total · 3/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Oct 3, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


14 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

A really cool climb that would get higher marks if it got a good scrubbing, the lichen is taking it back.

Stick clip the really high bolt (there is a stick clip at the cliff). Climb up on to the ledge. Zig and zag up the cliff as needed following the path of least resistance along the line of bolts. A few tricky spots will be overcome by using underclings and good footwork.
Keep the weight on your feet and have some fun.

Very interesting.

Location

The far right route on the cliff. climb on to the ledge and follow bolts.

Protection

6 bolts to lower off bolts.

Photos

- No Photos -
M Bageant
Los Angeles, CA
M Bageant   Los Angeles, CA
I really liked this route...the lichen and the good spacing on the bolts made it more of an adventure than your typical Rumney route. Thoughtful climbing and interesting moves. Not really sustained at the grade, though the inobvious moves coupled with the lichen would make this a little tough if 5.10 is your limit. Jun 29, 2015
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
This one is on the list for bolt replacement and a scrub. Jun 29, 2015
S. Neoh
 
S. Neoh  
 
Did not see the big stick clip around for the first bolt.
Could really use new bolts at two spots. One other bolt is a new expansion.
Could use a good scrubbing all over. A bit licheny, otherwise a fine climb. Good feet were left wanting through the cruxy section.
Probably too "sparsely bolted" to become super popular. Sep 4, 2016