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Routes in The Prudential

Cranky Pants S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
El Funko S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Finland S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Full Premium, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Half Premium, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hard Drive S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Horned Behavior S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Losing Your Life and Living Through It T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Machine Head S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Measured Doses S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Midget Tricks S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mission Accomplished S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nice Land S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Practice, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Prudential Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Prudential Crack's Finish (unfinished) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3 PG13
Short and sharp S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Soft Job S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Soft Machine S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stoned Temple Pilot S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Swedish Girls S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ugly Crack (aka, sandbag crack) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wiggler Wants It T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Type: Trad, 25 ft
FA: ???
Page Views: 416 total, 12/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Mar 12, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

The short hand crack in the middle of the Prudential cliff. Thankfully the nice practice crack is situated underneath the large roof in the center of the cliff so it is almost always dry. The gear is good but take care in your placements as the stone is a bit soft.

You will likely be wishing it was 2 or 3 times it's length. Once you get in to the flow you are at the ledge and clipping the anchor.

Location

Obvious hand crack leading to the ledge under the roof.

Protection

Wide fingers to hands or maybe a #4 to make it feel cozy.

Photos

Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
3-Star quality climb, but 2 stars for the short length. There's plenty of action though, it was definitely well worth doing. A #4 cam would be very nice to protect the start. I used two finger-sized cams in the smaller crack to the left to protect the start instead (Metolius yellow and blue mastercams)which both looked bomber, but as the description says, the rock is soft so I doubled up.

And just to be clear, this is a NH "trad" 5.8+. Definitely harder than your typical Rumney 5.8. If it were bolted and at the Parking Lot Wall, I don't think 5.10a would be out of the question. May 8, 2016
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
 
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire