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Routes in The Prudential

Cranky Pants S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
El Funko S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Finland S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Full Premium, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Half Premium, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hard Drive S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Horned Behavior S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Losing Your Life and Living Through It T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Machine Head S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Measured Doses S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Midget Tricks S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mission Accomplished S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nice Land S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Practice, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Prudential Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Prudential Crack's Finish (unfinished) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3 PG13
Short and sharp S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Soft Job S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Soft Machine S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stoned Temple Pilot S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Swedish Girls S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ugly Crack (aka, sandbag crack) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wiggler Wants It T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: Mark Sprague
Page Views: 514 total, 7/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Nov 28, 2011
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

I put in 30-45 min cleaning it today then climbed it. 2nd ascent? It felt pretty hard for the grade. I can't believe it got the 5.9 grade when it was totally covered in filth, nice work Mark. The moves involve lots of balance and a bit of crack climbing skill. The good news is it's now a bit more clean and it protects quite well.

Climb the discontinuous cracks up the face between 2 crappy sport routes. Fingerlocks and face moves get you to an anchor on the left just below the big ledge.

Location

In the middle of the dirty lower wall at Prudential...

Protection

A small rack.

Photos

M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
I had it mostly clean, especially any important spots when I did it. I am sure it had grown back over the years since. and, yeah, it is a good chance Lee's was the second lead ascent. Jul 12, 2012
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Rare plants grow at the base just to the right of this route, in a little alcove that dogs like to dig up to make a bed, so if you climb here and have a dog, keep it tied up and out of there please, and don't throw your packs on the spot. I don't remember the plant 's name, but a biologist came through with his students and pointed them out. They are seasonal, so you wont see anything most of the time. The spot might be worthy of a little stone wall defining it and a little sign.

All in all the route is pretty "eh", so I suggested that Ward put it in the guide as "unrecommended" to help protect the plants. Nov 29, 2011