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Routes in The Prudential

Blue Sky and Rhino Horns S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bright Eyes S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cranky Pants S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
El Funko S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Finland S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Full Premium, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Half Premium, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hard Drive S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Horned Behavior S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Losing Your Life and Living Through It T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Machine Head S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Measured Doses S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Midget Tricks S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mission Accomplished S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nice Land S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Practical Magic S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Practice, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Prudential Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Prudential Crack's Finish (unfinished) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3 PG13
Prudential Off-Width (LYLALTI start) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Short and sharp S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Soft Job S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Soft Machine S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stoned Temple Pilot S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Swedish Girls S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ugly Crack (aka, sandbag crack) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wiggler Wants It T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
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Type: Sport
FA: Ed Esmond 4/01
Page Views: 1,740 total · 13/month
Shared By: lee hansche on May 31, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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This is a nice, technical 5.10a with a variety of styles and moves that will test your route and sequence finding abilities as well as your physical skills.

Belay from the eyebolt on the left side of the ledge or suffer the wrath of the cliff behind you.

The start can be done a few ways but basically do a few steep moves to establish your self on the steep slab and get your feet working. The climbing continues like this for a while till you approach the top and you get back in to some interesting, steeper moves to the chains. The last moves will test you, so don't count your proverbial chickens, so to speak.

The best warm up at the crag for sure.


Starts from the ledge that splits the left side of The Prudential. Walk left on the ledge to the end, and follow the bolt line above you up the steep slab, the route that traverses left from the ledge is Swedish Girls (5.10d).


9 bolts to quick clips.


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twellman   Cambridge
A very fun and varied route. The crux is getting off the ground, or so I thought. There's also some fun and tricky moves in the corner near the top. Jul 27, 2009
J. Albers
J. Albers   Colorado
I thought this was a great route. I do think the start is a bit height dependent though. If you can't reach the good rail above the first bolt from the starting holds, then this route gets quite a bit harder than 10- in a hurry. I climbed it with a woman who is sub 5'4" and the moves she was doing were not the 10- moves I had the luxury of doing. Either way, this is a super nice route. Aug 12, 2010
S. Neoh
S. Neoh  
I recommend stick clipping 1st and 2nd bolt. The start felt harder than the crux on Finland to me. It is probably .11a or harder for anyone 5'5" or shorter. Apr 28, 2013
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey LeCours   New Hampshire  
Great route. I enjoyed the various sections. I agree that the start is a little trickier for shorties - I could grab what I wanted from the ground easily. The crack midway up was fun and the top out was really cool. I'm surprised this wasn't called Finland. May 12, 2013
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
The moves on this route are fine, but did anybody else find the bolt placements bizarre? Most of the bolts were placed a l-o-n-g stretch to the left rather than on the actual route itself. And the bolt at the overhang twelve feet below the final corner is a way-long reach. I'm not sure what "midsize" climbers (Hello S. Neoh!) do. Ed Esmond, the original ascensionist, must have arms like an N.B.A. shooting guard. Oct 14, 2014
S. Neoh
S. Neoh  
Nick, I was able to do some contortions (and stemming?) to make the moves near the top. The moves below the second bolt are/were darn hard for me. I do not know how to climb the first 12 feet or so at .10a. Oct 15, 2014
M Bageant
Cambridge, MA
M Bageant   Cambridge, MA
I also thought the start was easily 5.10d...just slightly easier than the start to Finland to the right. Yes, I am a shorty. Cheater stones probably help.

The rest of the route was actually quite nice! I did not find the bolts weirdly placed; though at first glance it looks like you have to climb far to the right, I stayed to the left/on top of the bolts, following some invisible holds, and found the journey to be pleasant and thought-provoking. Jun 29, 2015
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
"Invisible holds" — ha! (I must have somehow missed those.) Aug 5, 2015

not only do i have the "ape index" of Kobe Bryant, but i also have "x-ray vision."

ed "alligator arms" e Aug 5, 2015
Somerville, MA
Kes   Somerville, MA
Does this finish to the right of the arete (on the Finland anchors) or to the left of the arete? Apr 15, 2017
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
It doesn't share anchors with anything so if I'm understanding your question I'd say left. Apr 17, 2017

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