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Stoned Temple Pilot
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.6 from 118
votes
Routes in The Prudential
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Blue Sky and Rhino Horns S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bright Eyes S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Cranky Pants S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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El Funko S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Finland S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Full Premium, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Half Premium, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Hard Drive S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Horned Behavior S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Losing Your Life and Living Through It T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Machine Head S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Measured Doses S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Midget Tricks S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Mission Accomplished S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Nice Land S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Practical Magic S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Practice, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Prudential Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Prudential Crack's Finish (unfinished) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3 PG13 |
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Prudential Off-Width (LYLALTI start) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Short and sharp S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Soft Job S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Soft Machine S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Stoned Temple Pilot S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Swedish Girls S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Tumbling Dice S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Ugly Crack (aka, sandbag crack) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wiggler Wants It T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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| Type: | Sport |
| FA: | Glenn Cilley 6/95 |
| Page Views: | 9,575 total · 47/month |
| Shared By: | Lee Hansche on Jan 12, 2007 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
This is absolutely a must do climb.
It is a steep intimidating line up beautiful rock, passing kneebars and other interesting rest spots. Use the rests, you will need them. It has been said that this route is reminiscent of the Red River Gorge and I fully agree. The first 10 feet is low angle and more moderate. When you reach the steep stuff, move left and over the first bulge finding a few choices of kneebars. After a good rest you move up in to the crux involving a few fairly bad holds and a high, right foot to a huge undercling. This where it gets pumpy for me. Take an awkward rest in a corner and hang on through the last few steep moves and mantel to the left to finish.
It is a steep intimidating line up beautiful rock, passing kneebars and other interesting rest spots. Use the rests, you will need them. It has been said that this route is reminiscent of the Red River Gorge and I fully agree. The first 10 feet is low angle and more moderate. When you reach the steep stuff, move left and over the first bulge finding a few choices of kneebars. After a good rest you move up in to the crux involving a few fairly bad holds and a high, right foot to a huge undercling. This where it gets pumpy for me. Take an awkward rest in a corner and hang on through the last few steep moves and mantel to the left to finish.
16 Comments