Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Prudential

Cranky Pants S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
El Funko S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Finland S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Full Premium, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Half Premium, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hard Drive S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Horned Behavior S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Losing Your Life and Living Through It T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Machine Head S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Measured Doses S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Midget Tricks S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mission Accomplished S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nice Land S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Practice, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Prudential Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Prudential Crack's Finish (unfinished) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3 PG13
Short and sharp S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Soft Job S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Soft Machine S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stoned Temple Pilot S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Swedish Girls S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ugly Crack (aka, sandbag crack) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wiggler Wants It T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Type: Sport
FA: Glenn Cilley 6/95
Page Views: 4,820 total, 36/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jan 12, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


40 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is absolutely a must do climb.

It is a steep intimidating line up beautiful rock, passing kneebars and other interesting rest spots. Use the rests, you will need them. It has been said that this route is reminiscent of the Red River Gorge and I fully agree. The first 10 feet is low angle and more moderate. When you reach the steep stuff, move left and over the first bulge finding a few choices of kneebars. After a good rest you move up in to the crux involving a few fairly bad holds and a high, right foot to a huge undercling. This where it gets pumpy for me. Take an awkward rest in a corner and hang on through the last few steep moves and mantel to the left to finish.

Location

The start is right up the hill in front of the crooked birch tree just as you scramble on to the ledge on the left side of the cliff.

Protection

7 bolts to chains. New SS glue-ins as of May 2015
Andy Casler
Plymouth, NH
 
Andy Casler   Plymouth, NH
 
Liked having a knee pad on this. Found two no hands rests with it Sep 17, 2017
Zach Swanson
Newton, MA
 
Zach Swanson   Newton, MA
 
Beautiful line, this may now be one of my favorites at Rumney.

I'd suggest noting that only 2 quickdraws are required for the route now, as the upper 5 are now perma-draws. Nov 12, 2015
M Sprague
New England
  5.11d
M Sprague   New England  
  5.11d
A bolt was missing a hanger for a while. Jul 14, 2015
Zach Swanson
Newton, MA
 
Zach Swanson   Newton, MA
 
Jeff can you explain what the need was for the cams that Lee plugged in that video? Is there just a mental runout or are those really necessary? Jul 14, 2015
M Sprague
New England
  5.11d
M Sprague   New England  
  5.11d
The bolts including the anchor have been replace with nice new SS glue-ins as of May 2015. No need for a cams now. Thanks! May 11, 2015
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
Impromptu camera video of Lee repeating Stoned Temple Pilot. I accidentally shot it sideways, woops!

youtube.com/watch?v=PVRsenf… Mar 12, 2015
Mike Robinson
Worcester, MA
 
Mike Robinson   Worcester, MA
 
Amazing! Apr 29, 2013
S. Neoh  
Finally got on this route today. Wow. Way more technical than your typical steep RRG route. The crux was not where I thought it would be. I think Mark's Beta above is good. I got to find the knee bar rest down low. First try felt .12a to me with the crux after the last, big undercling. Apr 28, 2013
M Sprague
New England
  5.11d
M Sprague   New England  
  5.11d
Fixed, Glenn. Thanks.

Beta- From the corner shake after the big undercling moves, I think it is easiest to move left, then angle back right towards the anchor. This involves a barndoory move, but it is less strenuous then going direct, key when you are feeling the pump. It's a really fun route. Sep 18, 2012
Glenn Cilley
Laconia, NH
 
Glenn Cilley   Laconia, NH
 
the route name is Stoned Temple Pilot
just to set the record straight Sep 18, 2012
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
A 12!!! Damn-it. I couldn't climb this when it was still an .11+ Jul 26, 2010
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
This is one of my rumney favorites, great line! Sep 14, 2009