Type: Sport
FA: Glenn Cilley 6/95
Page Views: 5,388 total · 37/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jan 12, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

This is absolutely a must do climb.

It is a steep intimidating line up beautiful rock, passing kneebars and other interesting rest spots. Use the rests, you will need them. It has been said that this route is reminiscent of the Red River Gorge and I fully agree. The first 10 feet is low angle and more moderate. When you reach the steep stuff, move left and over the first bulge finding a few choices of kneebars. After a good rest you move up in to the crux involving a few fairly bad holds and a high, right foot to a huge undercling. This where it gets pumpy for me. Take an awkward rest in a corner and hang on through the last few steep moves and mantel to the left to finish.

Location

The start is right up the hill in front of the crooked birch tree just as you scramble on to the ledge on the left side of the cliff.

Protection

7 bolts to chains. New SS glue-ins as of May 2015

Photos

nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
This is one of my rumney favorites, great line! Sep 14, 2009
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
A 12!!! Damn-it. I couldn't climb this when it was still an .11+ Jul 26, 2010
Glenn Cilley
Laconia, NH
 
Glenn Cilley   Laconia, NH
 
the route name is Stoned Temple Pilot
just to set the record straight Sep 18, 2012
M Sprague
New England
  5.11d
M Sprague   New England  
  5.11d
Fixed, Glenn. Thanks.

Beta- From the corner shake after the big undercling moves, I think it is easiest to move left, then angle back right towards the anchor. This involves a barndoory move, but it is less strenuous then going direct, key when you are feeling the pump. It's a really fun route. Sep 18, 2012
S. Neoh  
Finally got on this route today. Wow. Way more technical than your typical steep RRG route. The crux was not where I thought it would be. I think Mark's Beta above is good. I got to find the knee bar rest down low. First try felt .12a to me with the crux after the last, big undercling. Apr 28, 2013
Mike Robinson
Grand Junction, CO
 
Mike Robinson   Grand Junction, CO
 
Amazing! Apr 29, 2013
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey LeCours   New Hampshire  
Impromptu camera video of Lee repeating Stoned Temple Pilot. I accidentally shot it sideways, woops!

youtube.com/watch?v=PVRsenf… Mar 12, 2015
M Sprague
New England
  5.11d
M Sprague   New England  
  5.11d
The bolts including the anchor have been replace with nice new SS glue-ins as of May 2015. No need for a cams now. Thanks! May 11, 2015
Zach Swanson
Newton, MA
 
Zach Swanson   Newton, MA
 
Jeff can you explain what the need was for the cams that Lee plugged in that video? Is there just a mental runout or are those really necessary? Jul 14, 2015
M Sprague
New England
  5.11d
M Sprague   New England  
  5.11d
A bolt was missing a hanger for a while. Jul 14, 2015
Zach Swanson
Newton, MA
 
Zach Swanson   Newton, MA
 
Beautiful line, this may now be one of my favorites at Rumney.

I'd suggest noting that only 2 quickdraws are required for the route now, as the upper 5 are now perma-draws. Nov 12, 2015
Andy Casler
Plymouth, NH
 
Andy Casler   Plymouth, NH
 
Liked having a knee pad on this. Found two no hands rests with it Sep 17, 2017
Graham O.
  5.12a/b
Graham O.  
  5.12a/b
This is a great route. If you want to hit something off the beaten path then you should definitely check this thing out. Just a heads up, the third or fourth quickdraw (the one with the red gate) is sticky, as in it doesn’t close all the way when you clip it. I would have replaced it but it was bolted into it’s own chain. On a side note, does anyone know anything about the ‘Swedish Fish’ Project that’s in the guidebook? Thanks! Sep 3, 2018
S. Neoh  
The path to this climb is well traveled and beaten down, there was a long line for this climb two weekends ago. Come climb it with expectation of company. Lee, if we find sticky biners on this rig, I will let you know. Thanks for all your effort. Sep 3, 2018
Graham O.
  5.12a/b
Graham O.  
  5.12a/b
Thanks Lee! Stripping the draws (or at least the ‘sticky’ ones) would make sense to me. I just wanted to let people know so that they weren’t sketched out like I was and so that (if necessary) a more qualified person than me could do something about it. Thanks! Sep 26, 2018