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Routes in The Prudential
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Blue Sky and Rhino Horns S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bright Eyes S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Cranky Pants S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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El Funko S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Finland S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Full Premium, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Half Premium, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Hard Drive S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Horned Behavior S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Losing Your Life and Living Through It T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Machine Head S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Measured Doses S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Midget Tricks S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Mission Accomplished S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Nice Land S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Practical Magic S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Practice, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Prudential Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Prudential Crack's Finish (unfinished) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3 PG13 |
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Prudential Off-Width (LYLALTI start) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Scandinavian Swimmers S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Short and sharp S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Soft Job S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Soft Machine S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Stoned Temple Pilot S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Swedish Girls S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Tumbling Dice S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Ugly Crack (aka, sandbag crack) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Wiggler Wants It T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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| Type: | Sport, 75 ft (23 m) |
| FA: | Chris Smith, 11/15 |
| Page Views: | 1,184 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Ming on Jul 21, 2019 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
This is a branched off route from El Funko with its own anchors that looks like the highest point of Prudential. Follow up El Funko for the first 5 bolts. At the fifth bolt there is a steep ramp that trends left. Go up and make a committing super exposed move (for a 5.8 move) and clip a bolt on the moderate grounds of Hard Drive. Cross Hard Drive and up and clip another bolt and then slightly run out to an anchor on a left facing corner. 7 bolts to the chains. Be aware that the last two bolts cover the same amount of ground as the first 5 bolts on El Funko. It may feel run out but it's never unsafe, just not the tight bolting that Rumney climbers are used to.
The traverse is wild and really fun. It's easier IMHO than the move around the 4th bolt of El Funko, so I would give the traverse a 5.8.
The traverse is wild and really fun. It's easier IMHO than the move around the 4th bolt of El Funko, so I would give the traverse a 5.8.
Location
Start on El Funko. Trend left after 5th bolt and cross the route Hard Drive, clip a bolt on that route, and then to another bolt to it's own anchors at the very top of Prudential. Be aware you will be lowered over Machine Head but you will be about 5 feet out from that route from the overhang above.
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