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Routes in The Prudential

Cranky Pants S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
El Funko S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Finland S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Full Premium, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Half Premium, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hard Drive S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Horned Behavior S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Losing Your Life and Living Through It T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Machine Head S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Measured Doses S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Midget Tricks S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mission Accomplished S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nice Land S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Practice, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Prudential Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Prudential Crack's Finish (unfinished) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3 PG13
Short and sharp S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Soft Job S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Soft Machine S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stoned Temple Pilot S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Swedish Girls S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ugly Crack (aka, sandbag crack) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wiggler Wants It T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Chris Smith? 6/15
Page Views: 620 total, 20/month
Shared By: ward smith on Jun 16, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Stick-clip, then climb past the abandoned Raven's nest and up a steep crux section to anchors below the big roof. Good rainy day route.

The route was partially bolted as an aborted attempt at the big roof, possibly previously climbed to the high point by Brady Libby and friends.

Location

Scramble up to the elevated ledge and start just right of Stoned Temple Pilot

Protection

5 bolts

Photos

Daniel Kaye
Boston, ma
 
Daniel Kaye   Boston, ma
 
First try today, way more fun then I expected. Jumped on it cause my friend thought it looked cool, and working this - at first struggling between every bolt, but eventually unlocking beta to make it each move not so hard; sticking moves that looked impossible to me from the ground and at first try, but using some thinking and slowly progressing and realizing it's not so hard; a surprisingly fun/creative line culminating in harder and harder moves at the top, with a finishing sorta dyno (the way i did it) to amazing finishing jugs... just had to write something, really appreciated this one.

Isn't there a classic just left of this? Maybe I should try that one too.. Aug 28, 2016
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
much better and much steeper than I had expected. Apr 14, 2016
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Fun burly moves through the crux. Short but definitely worth getting on. Aug 17, 2015
S. Neoh  
This climb and STP were seeping quite a bit yesterday. Too bad. Looks like fun to me from the ground. Plan to get back here when it is drier and cooler. Aug 17, 2015