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Routes in The Prudential

Cranky Pants S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
El Funko S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Finland S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Full Premium, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Half Premium, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hard Drive S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Horned Behavior S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Losing Your Life and Living Through It T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Machine Head S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Measured Doses S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Midget Tricks S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mission Accomplished S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nice Land S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Practice, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Prudential Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Prudential Crack's Finish (unfinished) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3 PG13
Short and sharp S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Soft Job S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Soft Machine S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stoned Temple Pilot S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Swedish Girls S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ugly Crack (aka, sandbag crack) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wiggler Wants It T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Tom Armstrong
Page Views: 1,260 total · 12/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Sep 14, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Jonathan Steitzer

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Description

(Note: The route known as "The Premium" has been divided into two route submissions: The Half Premium and The Full Premium. The Half Premium ends at anchors on the midway ledge, and the Full Premium continues past those anchors to the top of the cliff.)

The Half Premium climbs the beautiful gray dihedral in the center of the cliff. Stick clip the first bolt and crank a technical and powerful crux sequence. Sandy jugs lead left, after which it's possible to topout on the midway ledge. Clip the anchors on the left and lower off, or, if it's not wet and/or you aren't already knackered, continue up the towering orange dihedral above to complete the Full Premium.

Protection

5 bolts to midway anchors

Photos

lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
finally tried it today! Mark put it very well... Steep and hard pretty much all the way! Super fun! felt full on 5.12d to me, i found the lower and upper corners to be equally difficult but in different ways... get on it! Mar 31, 2013
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Way steeper and harder than it first appears. Prepare for powerful, technical, pumpy climbing, while doing splits. Jul 25, 2010

More About The Half Premium

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