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The Half Premium
5.12c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 3.2 from 37
votes
Routes in The Prudential
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Blue Sky and Rhino Horns S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bright Eyes S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Cranky Pants S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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El Funko S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Finland S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Full Premium, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Half Premium, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Hard Drive S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Horned Behavior S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Losing Your Life and Living Through It T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Machine Head S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Measured Doses S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Midget Tricks S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Mission Accomplished S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Nice Land S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Practical Magic S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Practice, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Prudential Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Prudential Crack's Finish (unfinished) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3 PG13 |
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Prudential Off-Width (LYLALTI start) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Scandinavian Swimmers S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Short and sharp S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Soft Job S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Soft Machine S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Stoned Temple Pilot S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Swedish Girls S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Tumbling Dice S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Ugly Crack (aka, sandbag crack) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Wiggler Wants It T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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| Type: | Sport, 40 ft (12 m) |
| GPS: | 43.80513, -71.84452 |
| FA: | Tom Armstrong |
| Page Views: | 3,107 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Jay Knower on Sep 14, 2009 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
(Note: The route known as "The Premium" has been divided into two route submissions: The Half Premium and The Full Premium. The Half Premium ends at anchors on the midway ledge, and the Full Premium continues past those anchors to the top of the cliff.)
The Half Premium climbs the beautiful gray dihedral in the center of the cliff. Stick clip the first bolt and crank a technical and powerful crux sequence. Sandy jugs lead left, after which it's possible to topout on the midway ledge. Clip the anchors on the left and lower off, or, if it's not wet and/or you aren't already knackered, continue up the towering orange dihedral above to complete the Full Premium.
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