Avg: 3.6 from 36 votes
|FA:||Brady Libby 2001|
|Page Views:||4,227 total · 26/month|
|Shared By:||Lee Hansche on Mar 31, 2008|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall|
Start just right of The Premium with your hands on a well chalked Ledge sort of thing. Throw a heel up and pull in to a lay back so you can stand on the small ledge. Work up the face above stemming then moving out right to a distant hold and a good slab rest. Continue up good holds and even a hand jam to the horn above and a really nice welcome rest sitting on the horn or standing on the ledge. Above is a nice steep face with a crux looming at the top. Climb a mix of crimps and good holds to gain the crux just below the lip that marks the top. a powerful move up and left to a bad-ish hold and one final move to a jug. From here a funky but not too hard move gets you to the anchor. Careful of a very loose hold out left, i used it but warned my belayer to stay out of the way in case it blew off the wall.
I found it helpful to use a long draw (preplaced) on the last bolt so i could clip it from the final jug before the crux, i skipped the 8th bolt. I went with that because on one attempt my foot got caught on the 8th draw while falling from the crux. This ended with a 10-15 foot upside down fall.