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Routes in The Prudential

Cranky Pants S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
El Funko S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Finland S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Full Premium, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Half Premium, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hard Drive S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Horned Behavior S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Losing Your Life and Living Through It T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Machine Head S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Measured Doses S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Midget Tricks S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mission Accomplished S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nice Land S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Practice, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Prudential Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Prudential Crack's Finish (unfinished) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3 PG13
Short and sharp S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Soft Job S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Soft Machine S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stoned Temple Pilot S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Swedish Girls S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ugly Crack (aka, sandbag crack) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wiggler Wants It T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Type: Sport
FA: Brady Libby 2001
Page Views: 2,747 total, 23/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Mar 31, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

This is a quality, full value 5.12b (hard) that is often considered one of the best routes at the grade at Rumney. Be prepared to work hard right up to the heart breaker crux before the chains. Enjoy.

Start just right of The Premium with your hands on a well chalked Ledge sort of thing. Throw a heel up and pull in to a lay back so you can stand on the small ledge. Work up the face above stemming then moving out right to a distant hold and a good slab rest. Continue up good holds and even a hand jam to the horn above and a really nice welcome rest sitting on the horn or standing on the ledge. Above is a nice steep face with a crux looming at the top. Climb a mix of crimps and good holds to gain the crux just below the lip that marks the top. a powerful move up and left to a bad-ish hold and one final move to a jug. From here a funky but not too hard move gets you to the anchor. Careful of a very loose hold out left, i used it but warned my belayer to stay out of the way in case it blew off the wall.

Location

the first route to the right of the corner (The Premium) on the right side of the cliff.

Protection

9 bolts to quick clips.
I found it helpful to use a long draw (preplaced) on the last bolt so i could clip it from the final jug before the crux, i skipped the 8th bolt. I went with that because on one attempt my foot got caught on the 8th draw while falling from the crux. This ended with a 10-15 foot upside down fall.
Zane Dordai
  5.12c
Zane Dordai  
  5.12c
good to hear you're trying it mike! good luck man! I think its all about getting to that last move with a little juice...I also found hitting the hold in a worse position and then bumping to the meat wrap worked better for me. I've got a week off in october and i'm fairly certain i'll be back up in Rumney then. For now...the draws are up until mid October or until some sorry bastard comes along and takes em. Keep in mind you'll need 2 more plus anchors (or just stick clip the second, might be good to get the first one in for directional.) Aug 22, 2013
Zane,
Sorry to hear about your shoulder, thanks for the update on the draws. I agree with you that this line feels frustratingly hard for 12b. The climbing is tricky but not crazy hard on the whole route. That last move is a killer though. I think I've fallen from that spot 3 or 4 times now after doing the rest easily. A bit like Eyeless in Gaza... Hoping to get back to send soon! Aug 14, 2013
Zane Dordai
  5.12c
Zane Dordai  
  5.12c
Some vague beta in here:In my opinion Mark, the first section is very pumpy but probably factors mostly out of the overall grade due to the sit down. I do agree, there are some very reachy moves in there that would make it quite a good deal harder if you were shorter. The continuous nature of the upper section with the tough last clip and huge move to the sidepull meatwrap thing seemed really low percentage to me. I had to hit the hold just right with my palm and I missed it quite a few times up there. I'm probably just bad at rock climbing, but low percentage moves when youre pumped are hard! That was really what made the climb feel harder than the grade to me. I am 5'11 but with some sort of minus ape. I've got no trouble reaching anything, more just getting to it... Aug 8, 2013
M Sprague
New England
  5.12b
M Sprague   New England  
  5.12b
Are you particularly short? It shouldn't feel that hard, though it is the typical Rumney beta intensive funkiness. There are a couple moves that I can barely reach at 5.8 near the beginning, so I could see how if you are shorter it would feel harder. There is a hold right at the top that is hard to see that ends many people's on-site too. Aug 5, 2013
Zane Dordai
  5.12c
Zane Dordai  
  5.12c
This climb is 12c (felt almost as hard as aquarius both with good beta) if we are keeping in line with traditional Rumney grades. I left my draws on this and hurt my shoulder. I've left the area and won't be back until the end of September or so. If I'm not back by then, Tom (armstrong) generously offered to clean them off.

Until then, all but the first draw and the first draw above the break are hung (first needs to be stick clipped and the one after the break is easy to hang/clean). I also cleaned all the holds, especially up top. So all this being said...jump on it! It's one of the best routes in Rumney that I have been on. Aug 5, 2013
S. Neoh  
Yeah, Lee,I have heard from more than one person who has been on this route that it is stout for the 12b grade. I've never been on it myself and likely won't in the near future. Apr 19, 2011
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
This route felt really hard for me, more like 5.12c... if you are good at endurance i'm sure it could be spot on for you but that stuff is tough for me... Also if you are short there are a few really reachy moves us tall folks dont have to worry about...

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED! Apr 19, 2011