Type: Sport
FA: Brady Libby 2001
Page Views: 4,987 total · 26/month
Shared By: Lee Hansche on Mar 31, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route

45 Opinions
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Description Suggest change

This is a quality, full value 5.12b (hard) that is often considered one of the best routes at the grade at Rumney. Be prepared to work hard right up to the heart breaker crux before the chains. Enjoy.

Start just right of The Premium with your hands on a well chalked Ledge sort of thing. Throw a heel up and pull in to a lay back so you can stand on the small ledge. Work up the face above stemming then moving out right to a distant hold and a good slab rest. Continue up good holds and even a hand jam to the horn above and a really nice welcome rest sitting on the horn or standing on the ledge. Above is a nice steep face with a crux looming at the top. Climb a mix of crimps and good holds to gain the crux just below the lip that marks the top. a powerful move up and left to a bad-ish hold and one final move to a jug. From here a funky but not too hard move gets you to the anchor. Careful of a very loose hold out left, i used it but warned my belayer to stay out of the way in case it blew off the wall.

Location Suggest change

the first route to the right of the corner (The Premium) on the right side of the cliff.

Protection Suggest change

9 bolts to quick clips.
I found it helpful to use a long draw (preplaced) on the last bolt so i could clip it from the final jug before the crux, i skipped the 8th bolt. I went with that because on one attempt my foot got caught on the 8th draw while falling from the crux. This ended with a 10-15 foot upside down fall.