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Routes in The Prudential

Cranky Pants S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
El Funko S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Finland S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Full Premium, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Half Premium, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hard Drive S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Horned Behavior S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Losing Your Life and Living Through It T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Machine Head S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Measured Doses S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Midget Tricks S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mission Accomplished S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nice Land S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Practice, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Prudential Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Prudential Crack's Finish (unfinished) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3 PG13
Short and sharp S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Soft Job S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Soft Machine S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stoned Temple Pilot S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Swedish Girls S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ugly Crack (aka, sandbag crack) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wiggler Wants It T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Tom Armstrong
Page Views: 542 total, 21/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Oct 21, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

(Note: The route known as "The Premium" has been divided into two route submissions: The Half Premium and The Full Premium. The Half Premium ends at anchors on the midway ledge, and the Full Premium continues past those anchors to the top of the cliff.)

The Full Premium follows a towering inside corner up the center of the Prudential. Start with technical and thin stemming moves up a clean gray dihedral. These moves lead to rounded jugs and eventually the midway ledge. The Half Premium ends here.

Above the ledge, climb the orange dihedral by using powerful and technical moves. Once you top out the dihedral, continue up 20 more feet of slightly easier rock to the top of the cliff.

The Full Premium is one of the mega-lines of Rumney and should be in the same conversation as Predator, Beat Junkie, Urban, and Giant Man as one of the best pitches on the hillside. The upper dihedral is often wet; therefore, a tick of the Full Premium is an elusive one. Many who attest to having climbed "The Premium" have only done the first half.

Protection

10 bolts to anchors

Photos

lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.12d
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.12d
Just a quick year and a half and the above concerns have been alleviated. Today I took one run up to hang draws and re-sus moves (and figure some new beta to get around the wet patches), took a 30 minute rest and sent it :)

side note: this was the last sport route I hadn't done on the Pru... Having checked thoroughly I can say this cliff is STACKED with quality climbs. Once the ravens move out I guess I have to climb "Losing My Life". That should be fun! May 4, 2017
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.12d
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.12d
This thing will be haunting my dreams for a bit after falling on the last real hard move today exiting the upper corner to gain a jug. Motivation to get back after it soon armed with improved beta and rested muscles. Oct 27, 2015