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Routes in The Prudential

Cranky Pants S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
El Funko S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Finland S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Full Premium, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Half Premium, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hard Drive S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Horned Behavior S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Losing Your Life and Living Through It T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Machine Head S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Measured Doses S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Midget Tricks S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mission Accomplished S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nice Land S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Practice, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Prudential Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Prudential Crack's Finish (unfinished) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3 PG13
Short and sharp S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Soft Job S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Soft Machine S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stoned Temple Pilot S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Swedish Girls S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ugly Crack (aka, sandbag crack) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wiggler Wants It T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Type: Trad, TR, 45 ft
FA: Brady Libby 1/01
Page Views: 498 total, 6/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Mar 8, 2011
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

A burly layback and kneebar section off the ground leads to a good jug and more moderate but really enjoyable climbing leads to a few moves that are shared with Premium (5.12c/d) then a ledge. On the ledge step left to an anchor.

The hard starting moves are well protected but beyond that there is a seam that looks very sketchy to fish in protection. Once you join Premium you can clip a couple bolts.

I decided I was happy just to toprope it, which I set up by climbing the first half of Premium and clipping the Wiggler anchors.

Location

A small left facing corner just left of the big Premium corner.

Protection

a few small cams and small nuts to a couple bolts And a two bolt anchor.
You can toprope by climbing (or cheating) up the Premium to the anchor.

Photos

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Eric Leclerc
Montreal
  5.12a R
Eric Leclerc   Montreal
  5.12a R
Top rope was also the only option for me. Really fun sequence at the start but hard to find the proper sequence. Felt soft once I figured the foot work. May 19, 2015
M Sprague
New England
  5.12a R
M Sprague   New England  
  5.12a R
Brady used a nest of little wires in the sketchy seam. I'm not sure they would have held a real fall, as it flexes and being soft schist and all. I opted for a TR too. Mar 9, 2011