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Routes in The Prudential

Cranky Pants S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
El Funko S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Finland S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Full Premium, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Half Premium, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hard Drive S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Horned Behavior S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Losing Your Life and Living Through It T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Machine Head S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Measured Doses S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Midget Tricks S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mission Accomplished S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nice Land S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Practice, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Prudential Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Prudential Crack's Finish (unfinished) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3 PG13
Short and sharp S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Soft Job S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Soft Machine S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stoned Temple Pilot S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Swedish Girls S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ugly Crack (aka, sandbag crack) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wiggler Wants It T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Type: Sport
FA: Mark Sprague 5/01
Page Views: 1,717 total, 13/month
Shared By: lee hansche on May 31, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

A really fun route that is worth the hike out to the "far" reaches of Rumney. not your classic, Rumney climb. The crux is slopey and the feet are poor, but somehow it's so sweet.

Belay from the belay bolt at the left side of the ledge.

From the ledge, traverse left to a small corner and layback up carefully. Lots of opposition and body tension involved. After this mindbending section, you get a nice rest. Step right and climb up and left to the chains. The upper half is not as strenuous but not to be dismissed.

This route is a good warm up for the best 5.11d in the world (OK maybe not THE BEST, but it kicks ass), Stoned Temple Pilot, so you may as well hit that while you are there.

Location

The far left route on the ledge on the left side of The Prudential. Traverse left from the belay bolt to start.

Protection

8 bolts to anchor.
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10d
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10d
I'm with Lee and Soon—5.10d. I'm also curious . . . have any 5.10 leaders on-sighted this route? Good luck with that! Jun 5, 2016
S. Neoh
  5.10d
S. Neoh  
  5.10d
Deceptively tough albeit short crux. I think .10d is right especially when there was no chalk on any of the holds around the crux. Apr 28, 2013
JohnnyG  
The lower start is really good. Nov 14, 2011
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
I climbed this route again today and cant see how it got down graded in the new guide book.... i would have accepted an up grade more easily, thought the original 5.10d was just right... Mar 16, 2010
M Sprague
New England
  5.10d
M Sprague   New England  
  5.10d
There is an alternate start to this that I bolted that comes up the wall below to add some nice moderate climbing before you jump right into the cruxy start of the original way. This was the left most line on the lower wall ( glue-ins) but a lower bolted start to boar war may have been added since. The next 3 lines to the rt on this lower wall are ones that I wouldn't recommend: first, Measured Doses, a nondescript route with (to my mind)an oddly bolted finish. Second, a sharp, half cleaned, nasty, trad route that I did, with a bolted anchor (Ugly Crack), and finally a sharp sport route, Short and Sharp, that is right above a patch of rare plants that may not be visible part of the year, so please don't climb this or disturb the base area Sep 11, 2009