Type: Sport
FA: Mark Sprague 5/01
Page Views: 1,894 total · 13/month
Shared By: lee hansche on May 31, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


42 Opinions

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Description

A really fun route that is worth the hike out to the "far" reaches of Rumney. not your classic, Rumney climb. The crux is slopey and the feet are poor, but somehow it's so sweet.

Belay from the belay bolt at the left side of the ledge. Alternatively you can do the new start from below and add a few bolts of more moderate climbing up to the ledge before jumping directly into the crux 

From the ledge, traverse left to a small corner and layback up carefully. Lots of opposition and body tension involved. After this mindbending section, you get a nice rest. Step right and climb up and left to the chains. The upper half is not as strenuous but not to be dismissed.

This route is a good warm up for the best 5.11d in the world (OK maybe not THE BEST, but it kicks ass), Stoned Temple Pilot, so you may as well hit that while you are there.

Location

The far left route on the ledge on the left side of The Prudential. Traverse left from the belay bolt to start.

Protection

8 bolts to anchor.

Photos

M Sprague
New England
  5.10d
M Sprague   New England  
  5.10d
There is an alternate start to this that I bolted that comes up the wall below to add some nice moderate climbing before you jump right into the cruxy start of the original way. This was the left most line on the lower wall ( glue-ins) but a lower bolted start to boar war may have been added since. The next 3 lines to the rt on this lower wall are ones that I wouldn't recommend: first, Measured Doses, a nondescript route with (to my mind)an oddly bolted finish. Second, a sharp, half cleaned, nasty, trad route that I did, with a bolted anchor (Ugly Crack), and finally a sharp sport route, Short and Sharp, that is right above a patch of rare plants that may not be visible part of the year, so please don't climb this or disturb the base area Sep 11, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.10d
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.10d
I climbed this route again today and cant see how it got down graded in the new guide book.... i would have accepted an up grade more easily, thought the original 5.10d was just right... Mar 16, 2010
JohnnyG  
The lower start is really good. Nov 14, 2011
S. Neoh
  5.10d
S. Neoh  
  5.10d
Deceptively tough albeit short crux. I think .10d is right especially when there was no chalk on any of the holds around the crux. Apr 28, 2013
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10d
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10d
I'm with Lee and Soon—5.10d. I'm also curious . . . have any 5.10 leaders on-sighted this route? Good luck with that! Jun 5, 2016