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Routes in The Prudential

Cranky Pants S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
El Funko S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Finland S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Full Premium, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Half Premium, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hard Drive S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Horned Behavior S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Losing Your Life and Living Through It T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Machine Head S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Measured Doses S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Midget Tricks S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mission Accomplished S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nice Land S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Practice, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Prudential Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Prudential Crack's Finish (unfinished) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3 PG13
Short and sharp S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Soft Job S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Soft Machine S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stoned Temple Pilot S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Swedish Girls S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ugly Crack (aka, sandbag crack) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wiggler Wants It T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Type: Sport
FA: Ed Esmond 5/01
Page Views: 1,835 total, 15/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Oct 3, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Hard. I found it to be hard for an 11a. However that's a little refreshing since many Rumney 11as are a little soft. Just show up with your A-game and it will rock you like a hurricane.

Start behind the birch tree on the steep wall. Climb bouldery moves on underclings and sidepulls to a super tricky and somewhat sandy couple of moves to the midway ledge. Here you can rest off the pump then move left and up into a left leaning corner. Stem your way up the corner using some hard to find holds and on to the anchors above.

As with a few of the routes at this crag, some spots can be sandy but over all it's nice quality and fun moves.

Location

Just left of the super steep (and classic) Stoned Temple Pilots (5.11d). Start behind a birch tree and crank.

Protection

8 bolts to anchors

Photos

S. Neoh
  5.11a
S. Neoh  
  5.11a
This route is near the top of my list for a redpoint! Grr.
No, Nick, I did not find a knee bar below the ledge on this one. Oct 15, 2014
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
 
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
 
Clipping the third bolt (I think it's the third bolt) above the overhang is not easy. After a stretched-out reach, I had my left hand on the infamous "sandy hold." (SPOILER ALERT: potential on-sighters stop reading here.) However, I was told that there is a kneebar that makes this section easier. Darned if I saw it. Anybody know anything about a kneebar on this route? Oct 14, 2014
S. Neoh
  5.11a
S. Neoh  
  5.11a
Very good route. Crux is short. Upper corner is really nice.
To me, this is one of the top 3 .11a at Rumney. Apr 28, 2013
Tom Gnyra

5.11b
Tom Gnyra    
5.11b
hard for 11a, for sure! Aug 27, 2012
twellman
Cambridge
 
twellman   Cambridge
 
I agree that it felt hard for an 11a. I think the awkward sandy topout at the top of the first section was the harder part. Otherwise, the opening power moves are tons of fun, and the stemming and laybacks near the top were classic. Definitely worth doing.

It is possible to set up a toprope for this one after doing niceland (10a) to the left, but you have to put draws on most of the bolts as you belay down, then unclip them as you climb. Jul 27, 2009