Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Prudential

Cranky Pants S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
El Funko S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Finland S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Full Premium, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Half Premium, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hard Drive S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Horned Behavior S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Losing Your Life and Living Through It T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Machine Head S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Measured Doses S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Midget Tricks S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mission Accomplished S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nice Land S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Practice, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Prudential Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Prudential Crack's Finish (unfinished) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3 PG13
Short and sharp S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Soft Job S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Soft Machine S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stoned Temple Pilot S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Swedish Girls S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ugly Crack (aka, sandbag crack) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wiggler Wants It T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Art Mooney 1994
Page Views: 138 total, 2/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Mar 28, 2013
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This seldom climbed route starts on the elevated ledge on the right side of the cliff. You will see the line of bolts above and to the right of Machine Head (5.11d).

A steeper start gives way to a lower angle but technical face. A bit bouldery in the lower stuff but if you think footwork and hit the holds right it's not too bad. you then get some easy low angle climbing and a thin crux at the top.

the whole route could use a good cleaning of both plant life and loose rock (small stuff only), I took a good ride on my onsight attempt when a hold broke.

Location

One of the farthest routes to the right at Prudential. Second route from the right above the ledge.

Protection

6 bolts to anchor.

Photos

- No Photos -
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
  5.11d
Eric Leclerc   Montreal
  5.11d
I did it on top rope since the second bolt is in advanced rusty condition. The top part was covered with vegetation but I cleaned the holds you need for the climb except the top holds that are good enough without being clean.
Cool climb but must be really hard to start if below 6' tall. May 19, 2015