Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Lee Hansche 8/24/18
Page Views: 228 total · 21/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Aug 24, 2018
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Note: It needs a bit more cleaning but all the holds you need are clean.

For years I have looked at an old rust piton half driven into the seam above Machine Head (5.11d). This drew my attention but the line is pretty obvious even if it's solution wasn't. Listed as a "project" in Ward's older books it was a matter of time. I took that as a challenge.

Id describe the line as technical, powerful and exciting. Some very controlled movement with an explosion or two for character. 

Initially I went after it as a layback on a series of side-pulls but it quickly became clear that there weren't the proper feet to make this work at a reasonable grade. I ended up combining those side-pulls in the seam with my left hand and a couple of holds out right to create a tenuous sequence that is technical and powerful leading to a dynamic move to finish the crux sequence. As the steepness eases off compress your way through another powerful sequence into some 5.10-ish moves and on to the old intended anchor you should be able to celebrate a little at this point and romp into the end of Tumbling Dice (5.9) to the anchor at the very to of the cliff.

Location

This route starts from the comfy ledge directly above Machine Head (5.11d). Either climb that route and link in to Practical Magic or start up El Funko on the right side of the ledge and find a comfortable way to move left on the big ledge and do it as it's own route.

It climbs the obvious seam between Hard Drive (5.11d) and The Practice (5.12d). Look for Machine Head's quick clips... Start there.

Protection

6 bolts to the pigtails at the top of the wall. The upper ones are a little run out on easy ground (maybe 5.7).

Careful of the ledge at the start! There isn't really a clipping position while climbing the opening crux so you want to pre clip the 2nd bolt. Either stick clip the 2nd bolt or more practically dog up and cheat the 2nd clip before lowering back to the ledge and climbing as if stick clipped. With an attentive belay the ledge shouldn't be an issue. I clipped the 3rd bolt once my hand were on the better holds at the top of the initial headwall. I did take a fall on to the 2nd clip from there and it went fine but don't use a lazy belayer.

Photos