All Locations > New Hampshire > Rumney > Prudential

Machine Head

Name: Machine Head
Rating: 3.0

5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British

Routes in The Prudential

L › R R › L A › Z

	Blue Sky and Rhino Horns S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Bright Eyes S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Cranky Pants S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	El Funko S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Finland S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Full Premium, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Half Premium, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Hard Drive S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Horned Behavior S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Losing Your Life and Living Through It T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Machine Head S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Measured Doses S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Midget Tricks S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Mission Accomplished S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Nice Land S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Practical Magic S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Practice, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Prudential Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Prudential Crack's Finish (unfinished) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3 PG13
	Prudential Off-Width (LYLALTI start) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Scandinavian Swimmers S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Short and sharp S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Soft Job S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Soft Machine S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Stoned Temple Pilot S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Swedish Girls S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Tumbling Dice S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Ugly Crack (aka, sandbag crack) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Wiggler Wants It T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R

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Type:	Sport
GPS:	43.80513, -71.84452
FA:	Ted Hammond 1990
Page Views:	4,877 total · 21/month
Shared By:	Lee Hansche on Jan 12, 2007
Admins:	Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Machine Head is a short but kick ass climb with a technical less than vertical start, a steep jug haul bulge and a scary balancy mantel finish. All in a route that is only 5 bolts long.

I recommend clipping the 2nd bolt due to an awkward clipping stance and ground fall potential, but that's your call. The first moves are like the moves you find at the bottom of many routes on Waimea. not steep but all the holds are facing weird directions. After overcoming this section you hit the jugs of the Red River Gorge like central band. And now that you are pumped, head up to the dreaded mantel finish. After working it out the grade seems reasonable but on the onsight attempt it feels hard in the grade.

They only give it one star in the guide book but I think it is worthy of full marks.

Location

The right side of the cliff. It only goes up to the midway ledge.Locate the quick clips on the wall above the ledge. The route starts right underneath.