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Routes in The Prudential

Cranky Pants S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
El Funko S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Finland S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Full Premium, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Half Premium, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hard Drive S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Horned Behavior S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Losing Your Life and Living Through It T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Machine Head S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Measured Doses S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Midget Tricks S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mission Accomplished S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nice Land S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Practice, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Prudential Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Prudential Crack's Finish (unfinished) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3 PG13
Short and sharp S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Soft Job S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Soft Machine S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stoned Temple Pilot S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Swedish Girls S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ugly Crack (aka, sandbag crack) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wiggler Wants It T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Type: Sport
FA: Ted Hammond 1990
Page Views: 2,501 total · 19/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jan 12, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Machine Head is a short but kick ass climb with a technical less than vertical start, a steep jug haul bulge and a scary balancy mantel finish. All in a route that is only 5 bolts long.

I recommend clipping the 2nd bolt due to an awkward clipping stance and ground fall potential, but that's your call. The first moves are like the moves you find at the bottom of many routes on Waimea. not steep but all the holds are facing weird directions. After overcoming this section you hit the jugs of the Red River Gorge like central band. And now that you are pumped, head up to the dreaded mantel finish. After working it out the grade seems reasonable but on the onsight attempt it feels hard in the grade.

They only give it one star in the guide book but I think it is worthy of full marks.

Location

The right side of the cliff. It only goes up to the midway ledge.Locate the quick clips on the wall above the ledge. The route starts right underneath.

Protection

5 bolts to quick clips
Daniel Kaye
Boston, ma
 
Daniel Kaye   Boston, ma
 
Question about the mantel - straight up or right?

I tried both... it feels consistent in difficulty & more of a natural line to go almost straight up over the last bolt. But you can also go ~8' right of the last bolt, almost directly over the anchors of the climb to the right, which is much easier (maybe what Ward is talking about). Any idea which is intended? Jun 26, 2017
ward smith
  5.11d
ward smith  
  5.11d
Just got on this again after onsighting it 20 years ago....failed on the deja vue onsight at the mantle. The mantle is actually 5.9 if you hit it right...I didn't.

Definitely getting two stars (out of three) and 11d in the new guide, great route. Jun 16, 2015
Matt Levine
Concord, NH
Matt Levine   Concord, NH
I projected this for a little while this past weekend. The pre-roof sections ease up quite a bit with the right beta...the crux is in the pump at the top for me. Can't wait to get back and tick it off (hopefully...)

Fantastic route for sure. Apr 22, 2015
Zane Dordai  
 
classic rig. at least as hard as pulse, and in my opinion as hard as many of the 12a's I have done. either the hardest 11d ever or a soft 12a...but either way one of Rumney's best short climbs. another great non-awkward mantle finish.

beta spoiler: the dihedral definitely contained the hardest moves on the route, but the pump hits you on the mantle. Aug 5, 2013
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
The bolts Jared mentions have been updated May 12, 2013
Jared LaVacque
Anchorage/Grand Junction
  5.11d
Jared LaVacque   Anchorage/Grand Junction  
  5.11d
The 2nd bolt and most of the SMC hangers spin, which makes stick clipping difficult. The glue in bolts are solid. A really fun route in general. Apr 23, 2011
Adam Conroy
Cambridge, MA
Adam Conroy   Cambridge, MA
Worked this problem today for a while, didn't send but got all the moves. That mantle finish had my heart pumping and made me feel like I really pulled off something epic.

The description nails it and its minimum 3 stars here. Will reserve whether it is 3 or 4 after I send it. :) Mar 6, 2010