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Soft Job
5.12d,
Sport, 40 ft (12 m),
Avg: 2.3 from 18
votes
FA: bill bentley 1993
New Hampshire
> Rumney
> Prudential
Description
This is the route in the middle of the right side of the cliff that follows the shallow right leaning corner to a set of quick clips at the halfway ledge. Soft Job ends here and there is another route that continues.
Start on a huge jug just left of the start of Machine Head (5.11c/d). You won't get many more of these big holds so enjoy it. Make a long move off of a nice undercling to a good crimp. Let the games begin. Ultra technical moves on small crimps and invisible feet get you up the steep face using tiny sidepulls and gastons, and some fancy footwork. Then make a move left to a good rest at the halfway point. From here pull the roof using a really cool rung hold and get up on a really awkward ledge for a rest. The final section heads up a shallow groove and isn't bad after you figure out the feet and where the holds are.
The bottom and top are harder for shorties and the ledge rest is wicked awkward for tall people (serves us right I suppose).
Location
Just left of Machine Head. Look for the thin face just right of a right leaning corner.
Protection
5 bolts to quick clips.
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
PS. my theory is that this soft section of rock has worn down making ok feet in to desperate feet and there by upgrading the route... Apr 11, 2011
New England
Why this climb? Restless Native (hard corner) or Great White (desparate crimping) or ... might be more rewarding. Just saying..... Apr 11, 2011
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
im not set on doing this climb in any way... i just wondered if anyone else thought it was a sandbag... i have however done most of the classic 5.12s around rumney and im not going to avoid a route cause it doesn't get many stars... ive seldom met a rock climb i didnt like, soft job is cool, just stupid hard for 12c... also as the season has started up im already sick of the crowds so ill be on the obscure routes in the back country when ever i can be... Apr 11, 2011
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
New England
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
Wendell MA
We all went up to Prudential, and Brady and the bunch were all up there putting up new routes. I decide to get on Soft Job, and Brady starts spraying me down with beta, I don't always like beta but it was like he was tapped into my brain and I totally hiked it. Then Justin gets on next, and he flashes it also with little apparent effort. Then this rasta dude whom I've never met hikes it next ..I mean HIKES....so I'm thinking no way is this 13a or even 12d.
Of course the Rasta dude is Pete Kamistes who is a damned good climber, as is Justin, so I'm happy to call it 12 d in the new guide. If so it is my only 12 d flash.
Ward Aug 1, 2013
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
New England
New Hampshire
(p.s. I'd love to hear about any "tricks", heh) Mar 12, 2015
Many of the routes on the right end of the wall have sandstone-esque rock (is it actually sandstone??). I'm wondering if it also has the post-rain friability of sandstone since we were climbing here after a rain shower the night before. My parter ended up also breaking a little hold on machine head and he weighs a lot less than me. Oct 22, 2015
Greater NYC area
- Alex Jun 5, 2016