Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Ivan Rezucha and Annie O'Neill, 1981
Page Views: 1,351 total · 11/month
Shared By: GMBurns on Aug 4, 2008
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


29 Opinions

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Access Issue: A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing Details

Description

A fun climb that follows a right-leaning crack on the side of a massive block that leans against the main cliff.

From atop the boulder pile, step left into the crack. Follow the crack until you step around to easier climbing on the face to the left, and aim for a smallish but live pine tree with slings on it.

Or, after a few moves up the slab, move back right to continue climbing the exposed right edge of the block to the top. It is easier climbing than below, but very airy. Once you top out on the block there is a steel cable anchor around a coffee-table block. This anchor is around a block that seem to move ...

Location

Near the end of the Near Trapps, look for a big pillar, the Void block, leaning against the cliff. Void Where Inhibited climbs over the low roof that runs across the front of the block, and a crack splits up its right-facing aspect; this is the route Outsiders.

Protection

Standard rack. See comments below re: rap anchors

Photos

GMBurns
  5.8
GMBurns  
  5.8
I was so pumped when I did this that I don't remember how nice it was. My partner, who led it, had a lot of fun all the way up. She climbed through the bush and I stepped left around it. Aug 4, 2008
This is route protects easily and well, the moves are interesting, and if you step left to the face at the obvious break near the dead bush, it is 5.7. It is well worth doing if you are in the area. We just put a new red sling on the belay tree a week ago. Mar 23, 2009
JSH

5.8
JSH    
5.8
This route is G all the way up. It's also pretty easy for 5.8. It's a very nice route, and often overlooked (often hidden by the tree at its base, actually). Apr 30, 2009
John Ely
DC
 
John Ely   DC
 
Williams' new Near Trapps guide calls this a 5.7. Stiff at the grade, but the pro just sinks in all the way up. Jul 16, 2009
BrianRH
Jersey City, NJ
  5.7
BrianRH   Jersey City, NJ
  5.7
super fun and really easy to protect. First pitch might be a nice climb for someone looking to break into the grade. Oct 24, 2011
Anthony Baraff
Paris, France
 
Anthony Baraff   Paris, France
 
I just did this today. I think the bush is definitely dead. I see where it probably once was on the right crack. There is one final move before topping out the cracks that probably makes this 5.7+ to 5.8. Aug 12, 2013
SethG  
Hey this is a really fun climb! A very nice 5.7 pitch with great moves up the crack and thrilling exposure near the top. I have two comments:

2. I DON'T THINK THE STEEL CABLE ANCHOR IS SAFE. The block it is attached to is not that big and it is just a loose block sitting there on top of the formation. Yesterday I started to rap off this anchor but my partner called me back because she felt the block shift as I weighted it. I grabbed onto the shelf and climbed back up, and then we experimented and were able to rock the block without too much effort. I don't know if it will really fly off under body weight but I was pretty creeped out. There are cracks for a gear anchor up there. We chose to lead a pitch downward to the rap tree-- it is a 5.easy downclimb. Then we rapped off the tree.

You could also lead the next pitch of Inside Out, which is 5.6 up the face behind the ledge. Though I haven't done this, it looks like a fun pitch, and then if the book is accurate about a belay tree up there you could rap to the lower tree or I think it would be pretty easy to move up and right right to the tree above the Main Line. May 5, 2014
cliffmama  
 
Loved this climb. Lots of varied moves, real jams, liebacking, corner moves, big step over an exposed gap, it has lots of fun moves and is well protected.

Our first pitch ended in the small corner on the exposed right edge of the giant pillar. Stepping over the gap into that corner is one of the funnest moves on the climb and isn't to be missed! Felt like a 5.7, but with enough challenging moves to be thoughtful and interesting. Jul 16, 2016