Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Roy Kligfield and Ivan Rezucha, 1975
Page Views: 1,668 total · 11/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Apr 15, 2007
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


20 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures 2019 Details
Access Issue: A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing Details

Description

This route begins on a blackish face below a small tree and a flat block that is being held up by the tree.

Climb the face up left of the tree and block, then up the face to the small roof. Climb through the roof at a small weakness in the middle and continue up to the belay/rap tree.

The gear for this route is PG13/R, depending on how creative you are. Excellent face climbing and easily set up as a TR after leading Punch and Judy or Akid.

Location

This is an obvious line on the left side of the clean slab at the far end of the Nears. Just right of Punch and Judy.

Protection

Standard Gunks rack + red ballnutz.

Photos

Spiro Spiro
  5.8+
Spiro Spiro  
  5.8+
Bring lots of small cams you and can double up and make it less scary. Good moves on the climb. Sep 21, 2008
divnamite
New York, NY
  5.8 PG13
divnamite   New York, NY
  5.8 PG13
The climbing itself is fairly easy on the 5.8 side. I don't feel it's PG13, particularly entering the crux which is the corner and face. C3 helps, but not that much. Oct 2, 2010
Kevin Heckeler
Las Vegas, NV
 
Kevin Heckeler   Las Vegas, NV
 
I led Punch... (5.5) and we TR'd this. Fun route with a couple thin moves. Definitely within the 5.8 grade. Stay slightly right under the roof to gain a good hand, then pull the roof on the left. If you cheat too far left coming up the face you're missing out on the best moves on the climb IMO. Apr 9, 2012
Jeffrey Dunn    
 
PG with a normal gunks rack and small TCU's if you are creative. Apr 21, 2014