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Routes in d. Harvest Moon to the End

Across From the Fruitstand T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Akidlleativytoowouldn'tyou T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
D.S.B T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dark Side of the Moon T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Eowyn T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Far from the Madding Crowd T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fat and Flabby T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Fossil Fools T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ground Control T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hang Ten T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Harvest Moon T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hold the Mayo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
I'm OK, You're OK T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Interlewd (Lady and the Tramp) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Keystone Kop T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
King of P T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
LP T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Lean and Mean T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Like a Box of Chocolates T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Live and Let Die T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Mac-Reppy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Main Line T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Near Side of Far, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Outsiders T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Positively 4th Street T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Punch and Judy T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
R2-OK? T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Roman's Climb Next to Keystone Kop T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Scrambled Legs T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Seniors in Motion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shadow Nose, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shootin' the Curl T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Short and Sassy T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Spinal Exam T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Spinal Traction 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b C2
Strange Customs T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Swells Good T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Up in Arms T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Void Where Inhibited T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Void Where Prohibited T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Whatever T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Dick Williams, Joe Bridges, 1987
Page Views: 123 total, 1/month
Shared By: Dana Bartlett on Mar 23, 2010
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing Details

Description

Dangerous Sperm Backup

1. Scramble up and left up a brushy gully for about 30 feet. From the top of an obvious right-facing flake, wander up to the base of the huge right-facing corner above. 5.6+

2. Climb straight up to the roofs above; you should be about five or eight feet or so to the right of the huge corner. Over the ceilings, then go left or right to the top. 5.8

The first pitch had, it seemed to me, very suspect protection for the hardest move. After that, there is a long runout on easier ground; don't fall on this pitch.

It is hard to believe that the overhangs on pitch two yield at only 5.8, but they do. The guidebook rating for this section is 5.8+, and although I usually don't contradict the party line, this pitch just ain't hard 5.8. What isn't in dispute is the fun factor - the second pitch is a blast!

Standard 'Gunks rack.

Location

The start is approximately 150 feet left of the left end of the Williams Wall, marked by the finger crack of King of P. The large right-facing corner can't be missed, and you can see the right-facing flake at the top of the brushy gully.

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