Type: Trad, 135 ft
FA: 1965 Dick Williams and Dave Craft
Page Views: 1,621 total · 14/month
Shared By: Dana Marie on Jul 6, 2009
Admins: JSH

You & This Route

6 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures 2019 Details
Access Issue: A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing Details


Pitch 1 is better than it looks. Climb the corner to first overhang and exit left onto the face. The crux is on the face after stepping out from corner, and it protects well. Climb face to a comfortable belay at a left facing corner. (75 ft).

Pitch 2 is a beautiful line. Follow ceilings right until just below a scary looking block. Airy and gorgeous. Only a little lichen at the end makes the exit (left of the jutting block) exciting. This should get cleaned off with time. (60 ft).

Highly recommended!


Far end of the Near Trapps, 20 feet right of the start to Main Line.

Begin on a boulder pile with laurel bushes, at a big right-facing corner capped by an overhang. It can look a little overgrown.
Descend by a 5-10 minute walk off down Smede's Cove trail, to climbers' left.


All sorts of cams. I would recommend a 4' sling in the corner before heading out onto the face. At the top out, the belay tree (no anchors) was far back, so set up communication system with your second before heading up.


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SP Boston
Watertown, MA
SP Boston   Watertown, MA
Climbed this with HS on Labor Day weekend, 2013. Hopefully this beta can be of use to the next adventurers to this neck of the woods.

First, this was not three stars in our opinion. It deserves two stars, but probably not three. Why? For several reasons: 1) it is pretty overgrown and bushy as well as a bit dirty and dusty at points, and 2) while there are some classic moves on the route, and the views are nice from the second pitch, it lacks the consistency and exposure of routes like High E and Madame G's.

Pitch one: At the first ceiling, the guidebooks talk about an exit left option as your fingers are holding a horizontal crack on the left side of the right facing corner, in what is a small pre-ceiling. We examined that option and while the actual transition onto the face on the left looks feasible (immediate protection during and upon the transition), the face looks like a steep slab without any obvious further protection or holds. While some speak of it being 5.4, we didn't like the looks of it and opted for the traditional route.

At this point, you are about 25 or 30 feet from the belayer below you. Look up to a ceiling that traverses rightward, and shrinks as it goes. Traverse right. You should be fully 15 or 20 feet below the ceiling. Follow a good hand crack, with sparse feet, in an airy, interesting solid 5.6 traverse, about 20 feet. Then push upward towards the modest (18 inch at that point) ceiling.

Overcome the ceiling with relatively easy moves, and then do a very balancing semi-mantle to overcome the very top of the bulge/ceiling onto a slab. Limited hands make this a little interesting for the leader. Traverse up and left to an obvious belay station. Total length is on the short side, maybe 70 feet.

Overall a very enjoyable adventure that had more of a quiet, back-country feel to it. Sep 2, 2013