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Routes in d. Harvest Moon to the End

Across From the Fruitstand T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Akidlleativytoowouldn'tyou T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
D.S.B T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dark Side of the Moon T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Eowyn T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Far from the Madding Crowd T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fat and Flabby T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Fossil Fools T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ground Control T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hang Ten T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Harvest Moon T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hold the Mayo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
I'm OK, You're OK T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Interlewd (Lady and the Tramp) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Keystone Kop T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
King of P T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
LP T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Lean and Mean T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Like a Box of Chocolates T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Live and Let Die T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Mac-Reppy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Main Line T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Near Side of Far, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Outsiders T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Positively 4th Street T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Punch and Judy T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
R2-OK? T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Roman's Climb Next to Keystone Kop T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Scrambled Legs T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Seniors in Motion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shadow Nose, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shootin' the Curl T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Short and Sassy T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Spinal Exam T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Spinal Traction 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b C2
Strange Customs T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Swells Good T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Up in Arms T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Void Where Inhibited T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Void Where Prohibited T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Whatever T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 135 ft
FA: 1965 Dick Williams and Dave Craft
Page Views: 1,460 total, 14/month
Shared By: Dana Marie on Jul 6, 2009
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing Details

Description

Pitch 1 is better than it looks. Climb the corner to first overhang and exit left onto the face. The crux is on the face after stepping out from corner, and it protects well. Climb face to a comfortable belay at a left facing corner. (75 ft).

Pitch 2 is a beautiful line. Follow ceilings right until just below a scary looking block. Airy and gorgeous. Only a little lichen at the end makes the exit (left of the jutting block) exciting. This should get cleaned off with time. (60 ft).

Highly recommended!

Location

Far end of the Near Trapps, 20 feet right of the start to Main Line.

Begin on a boulder pile with laurel bushes, at a big right-facing corner capped by an overhang. It can look a little overgrown.
Descend by a 5-10 minute walk off down Smede's Cove trail, to climbers' left.

Protection

All sorts of cams. I would recommend a 4' sling in the corner before heading out onto the face. At the top out, the belay tree (no anchors) was far back, so set up communication system with your second before heading up.

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SP Boston
Watertown, MA
  5.6
SP Boston   Watertown, MA
  5.6
Climbed this with HS on Labor Day weekend, 2013. Hopefully this beta can be of use to the next adventurers to this neck of the woods.

First, this was not three stars in our opinion. It deserves two stars, but probably not three. Why? For several reasons: 1) it is pretty overgrown and bushy as well as a bit dirty and dusty at points, and 2) while there are some classic moves on the route, and the views are nice from the second pitch, it lacks the consistency and exposure of routes like High E and Madame G's.

Pitch one: At the first ceiling, the guidebooks talk about an exit left option as your fingers are holding a horizontal crack on the left side of the right facing corner, in what is a small pre-ceiling. We examined that option and while the actual transition onto the face on the left looks feasible (immediate protection during and upon the transition), the face looks like a steep slab without any obvious further protection or holds. While some speak of it being 5.4, we didn't like the looks of it and opted for the traditional route.

At this point, you are about 25 or 30 feet from the belayer below you. Look up to a ceiling that traverses rightward, and shrinks as it goes. Traverse right. You should be fully 15 or 20 feet below the ceiling. Follow a good hand crack, with sparse feet, in an airy, interesting solid 5.6 traverse, about 20 feet. Then push upward towards the modest (18 inch at that point) ceiling.

Overcome the ceiling with relatively easy moves, and then do a very balancing semi-mantle to overcome the very top of the bulge/ceiling onto a slab. Limited hands make this a little interesting for the leader. Traverse up and left to an obvious belay station. Total length is on the short side, maybe 70 feet.

Overall a very enjoyable adventure that had more of a quiet, back-country feel to it. Sep 2, 2013