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Strange Customs
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British R
Avg: 2.5 from 2
votes
Routes in d. Harvest Moon to the End
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Across From the Fruitstand T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Akidlleativytoowouldn'tyou T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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D.S.B T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dark Side of the Moon T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Eowyn T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Far from the Madding Crowd T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fat and Flabby T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Fossil Fools T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Ground Control T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hang Ten T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Harvest Moon T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hold the Mayo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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I'm OK, You're OK T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Interlewd (Lady and the Tramp) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Keystone Kop T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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King of P T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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LP T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Lean and Mean T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Like a Box of Chocolates T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Live and Let Die T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Mac-Reppy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Main Line T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Near Side of Far, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Outsiders T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Positively 4th Street T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Punch and Judy T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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R2-OK? T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 |
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Roman's Climb Next to Keystone Kop T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Scrambled Legs T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Seniors in Motion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Shadow Nose, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Shootin' the Curl T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Short and Sassy T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Spinal Exam T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Spinal Traction 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b C2 |
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Strange Customs T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Swells Good T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Up in Arms T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Void Where Inhibited T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Void Where Prohibited T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Whatever T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
| Type: | Trad, TR, 60 ft |
| FA: | 1987 Ed Webster and Todd Swain FFA 1987 Todd Swain and Paul Trapani |
| Page Views: | 342 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Tony Lopez on May 19, 2014 |
| Admins: | JSH |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Seasonal Route Closure
Details
2018 PEREGRINE FALCON CLIMBING CLOSURE
Due to nesting peregrine falcons, the section of the Trapps cliff between and including the routes Wisecrack (5.6) and Scary Area (5.12) is temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of March 19, 2018.
The section of Bonticou Crag known as THE SUNBOWL is also temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of February 23, 2018.
Boulderering Closure: The section of Undercliff Road between and including the boulder problems Atlas (V10) and Yikes (V9) is temporarily closed to bouldering.
Help us to protect the fledging Peregrine Falcons. We ask that you:
• DO NOT use ascent trails or rappel routes that access this area.
• DO NOT use the trails at the top of the cliff in the closure area.
• DO NOT use the section of the cliff base climbers trail between these routes.
• PLEASE refrain from excessive noise making while in the vicinity of this closure.
Visit: mohonkpreserve.org/climb
Due to nesting peregrine falcons, the section of the Trapps cliff between and including the routes Wisecrack (5.6) and Scary Area (5.12) is temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of March 19, 2018.
The section of Bonticou Crag known as THE SUNBOWL is also temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of February 23, 2018.
Boulderering Closure: The section of Undercliff Road between and including the boulder problems Atlas (V10) and Yikes (V9) is temporarily closed to bouldering.
Help us to protect the fledging Peregrine Falcons. We ask that you:
• DO NOT use ascent trails or rappel routes that access this area.
• DO NOT use the trails at the top of the cliff in the closure area.
• DO NOT use the section of the cliff base climbers trail between these routes.
• PLEASE refrain from excessive noise making while in the vicinity of this closure.
Visit: mohonkpreserve.org/climb
Access Issue: A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing
Details
A portion of the Near Trapps has been closed to climbing. This includes land below the cliff to above cliff line and starts approximately at Eenie Meenie and continues south about 200 feet. Climbers are asked to respect the no-trespassing signs and advised to use the access trail marked in orange blazes. This trail starts at the intersection of the Blue trail over the top of the Nears and the first Red trail. Follow the orange blazes east and downhill from this junction to arrive at the far (south) end of the Nears.
For more information please view mohonkpreserve.org/index.ph…
For more information please view mohonkpreserve.org/index.ph…
Description
This route is easily TR'd from the bolt anchor for Ground Control and Main Line. Leading it requires big cojones. Not recommended in the purple Williams guide.
Climb the ceiling (crux, piton) then up and left to an overhang with a piton under it. Climb past this and up the face into a left-facing corner capped by a ceiling. Move right around the corner and up to the bolts. 11d R, 60'
Climb the ceiling (crux, piton) then up and left to an overhang with a piton under it. Climb past this and up the face into a left-facing corner capped by a ceiling. Move right around the corner and up to the bolts. 11d R, 60'
Photos
- No Photos -
NJ
If the climbing after 30 feet were more consistent with the bottom this thing would be a classic, but it backs way off. That being said i think its definitely worthy of a lap on TR after climbing Main Line. If there were more than 2 old pitons on the first 30 feet I'd have pulled the rope and smiled my way back up.
Also- might be more like R/X and could be harder or easier than 11d. I'm a poor judge of difficulty. Jun 14, 2017