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Routes in d. Harvest Moon to the End

Across From the Fruitstand T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Akidlleativytoowouldn'tyou T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
D.S.B T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dark Side of the Moon T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Eowyn T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Far from the Madding Crowd T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fat and Flabby T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Fossil Fools T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ground Control T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hang Ten T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Harvest Moon T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hold the Mayo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
I'm OK, You're OK T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Interlewd (Lady and the Tramp) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Keystone Kop T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
King of P T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
LP T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Lean and Mean T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Like a Box of Chocolates T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Live and Let Die T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Mac-Reppy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Main Line T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Near Side of Far, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Outsiders T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Positively 4th Street T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Punch and Judy T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
R2-OK? T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Roman's Climb Next to Keystone Kop T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Scrambled Legs T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Seniors in Motion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shadow Nose, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shootin' the Curl T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Short and Sassy T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Spinal Exam T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Spinal Traction 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b C2
Strange Customs T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Swells Good T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Up in Arms T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Void Where Inhibited T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Void Where Prohibited T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Whatever T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: 1987 Ed Webster and Todd Swain FFA 1987 Todd Swain and Paul Trapani
Page Views: 322 total, 8/month
Shared By: Tony Lopez on May 19, 2014
Admins: JSH

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A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing Details

Description

This route is easily TR'd from the bolt anchor for Ground Control and Main Line. Leading it requires big cojones. Not recommended in the purple Williams guide.

Climb the ceiling (crux, piton) then up and left to an overhang with a piton under it. Climb past this and up the face into a left-facing corner capped by a ceiling. Move right around the corner and up to the bolts. 11d R, 60'

Location

Between Main Line and Ground Control on a stack of blocks below a low ceiling

Protection

R rated
a couple of pitons
Bolt anchor

Photos

- No Photos -
Stephen Bittner
  5.11d R
Stephen Bittner  
  5.11d R
I top roped this after climbing Main Line, not knowing anything about it. I found that the first 30 feet or so contained absolutely incredible climbing. The moves are unlike anything else in the area- the crux is a few very technical moves from a huge suuuuper cool undercling to tiny balancey feet and hands.

If the climbing after 30 feet were more consistent with the bottom this thing would be a classic, but it backs way off. That being said i think its definitely worthy of a lap on TR after climbing Main Line. If there were more than 2 old pitons on the first 30 feet I'd have pulled the rope and smiled my way back up.

Also- might be more like R/X and could be harder or easier than 11d. I'm a poor judge of difficulty. Jun 14, 2017
Tony Lopez
NJ
 
Tony Lopez   NJ
 
Weird footwork got me past the balancy crux. May 19, 2014