Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: 1987 Ed Webster and Todd Swain FFA 1987 Todd Swain and Paul Trapani
Page Views: 386 total · 7/month
Shared By: Tony Lopez on May 19, 2014
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


5 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing Details

Description

This route is easily TR'd from the bolt anchor for Ground Control and Main Line. Leading it requires big cojones. Not recommended in the purple Williams guide.

Climb the ceiling (crux, piton) then up and left to an overhang with a piton under it. Climb past this and up the face into a left-facing corner capped by a ceiling. Move right around the corner and up to the bolts. 11d R, 60'

Location

Between Main Line and Ground Control on a stack of blocks below a low ceiling

Protection

R rated
a couple of pitons
Bolt anchor

Photos

- No Photos -
Tony Lopez
NJ
  5.11d
Tony Lopez   NJ
  5.11d
Weird footwork got me past the balancy crux. May 19, 2014
Stephen Bittner
  5.11d R
Stephen Bittner  
  5.11d R
I top roped this after climbing Main Line, not knowing anything about it. I found that the first 30 feet or so contained absolutely incredible climbing. The moves are unlike anything else in the area- the crux is a few very technical moves from a huge suuuuper cool undercling to tiny balancey feet and hands.

If the climbing after 30 feet were more consistent with the bottom this thing would be a classic, but it backs way off. That being said i think its definitely worthy of a lap on TR after climbing Main Line. If there were more than 2 old pitons on the first 30 feet I'd have pulled the rope and smiled my way back up.

Also- might be more like R/X and could be harder or easier than 11d. I'm a poor judge of difficulty. Jun 14, 2017