Type: Trad, 190 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Dick Williams, Cherry Merritt and Herb Cahn, 1971
Page Views: 1,972 total · 24/month
Shared By: JSW on May 21, 2012
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures 2019 Details
Access Issue: A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing Details

Description

P1 - Up the face to the overhang. Through the overhang at the notch (crux) then angle up left on slab toward a large pine tree (rap station) 40 ft.

P2 - A few feet right of tree, up the right facing corner to the overhang. Left around the arrete and up to a second overhang where you step a bit right then up the steep face. Continue straight up he slab to a licheny steep juggy face which you continue straight up to a ledge with pine trees. Up 5 more feet and 10 feet to the right and you are at the pine tree rap station 140 ft. (The second pitch is exposed for 5.4 and really fun).

A single 2 rope 60 meter rappel gets you to the ground

Protection

Std Gunks racks protects well

Location

Far side of the Nears, well past the White Pillar (a large block leaning against the cliff with an obvious crack, Harvest Moon).

There is a small notch in a long overhang that is about 10 feet up. The notch is 3-4 feet from the right edge of the overhang. This is the right side of the Williams wall.

Photos

farkas.time
Albuquerque, NM
  5.4 PG13
farkas.time   Albuquerque, NM
  5.4 PG13
p1 is harder (5.5/5.6), awkward, short, run-out, hard to protect, and all around worthless except as access to p2. It should be lead with confidence due to ground-fall potential.

p2 is sustained and enjoyable 5.4 climbing with good pro.

Thanks, JSW, for putting up this description. May 30, 2012
jdrago
Rosendale, NY
jdrago   Rosendale, NY
Did this the other day and thought it was pretty sweet. Some straight up slab climbing for the first pitch which is a neat change of pace but gear is hard to come by. Apr 21, 2014
Tony Lopez
NJ
 
Tony Lopez   NJ
 
Pitch 2 was very dirty. My partner sent down at least half a dozen small rocks.
We had a long walk off. Go left on the hiker trail. At the trail sign/intersection, go left downhill on the faint trail marked with orange ribbon. Aug 15, 2014