Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Mike and Judy Yates, Al DeMaria, 1965
Page Views: 1,611 total · 10/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Mar 15, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Access Issue: A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing Details

Description

The Williams Wall is the most popular part of the "far Nears" and has started to draw occasional crowds. All of the routes in this area are pretty good - much better than those in the central part of the Nears.

Punch and Judy starts up clean, easier rock just past the steeper part of the face. It can be used to set a TR on the harder routes to the right.

P1: Climb up and then trend right to a belay on the big pine tree of Madding Crowd. You can rap at this point. 5.5, 100'.

P2: This looks improbable but it's not too bad - go right and then up through a steep section. Continue angling up right to the top. With proper care a 5.5 line can be found. Don't expect much chalk to guide you. The photo in Williams is your best bet to stay on route here. 5.5, 100'.

Protection

Standard Gunks rack

Location

Near the left end of the Williams Wall at the Nears. Start 35' left of the thin crack of Akidlleativytoowouldn'tyou, at the base of a left-facing corner.

Photos

The P1 description is not quite correct and a bit vague.

Begin in a slightly vegetated corner at the left end of the Williams' Wall, then immediately step right around the edge onto the nice clean face. Climb up about 12 feet to an obvious small flake/weakness, then climb the nice white face above (crux), Wander up right to a ledge with a pone tree belay/rap, or continue straight up to a nice ledge to build a gear belay for some additional climbing. Apr 22, 2008
Kevin Heckeler
Las Vegas, NV
 
Kevin Heckeler   Las Vegas, NV
 
P2 in the Williams guide was graded 5.4, and probably is. Tim's description is good. Don't traverse too far right or you'll end up runout on the nearby 5.8 After attaining the face you go mostly up and only trend right. When we climbed it there was chalk on the proper holds/route. Once at the obvious ledge with trees, then traverse right to the trees/anchors. Apr 8, 2012
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
I thought this climb was incredible. Thin slab on P1 (PG Gear at best) and an awesome P2. P2 was like a jungle gym. It was super easy, juggy, and exposed. Just make sure you check the holds on P2, there is some loose rock. Loved this climb. Aug 10, 2013
Jeffrey Dunn    
 
The description probably does not give enough emphasis as to the seriousness of the second pitch. There is quite a bit of loose rock up there and any rockfall would head straight towards Akid, Far From the Maddening Crowds, etc so I highly recommend not doing it if there are other parties around. Oct 19, 2015
Ken Hamel
Bristol, RI
Ken Hamel   Bristol, RI
I've done this route a few times over the years, most recently May of '17. I LOVE the 1st pitch, as it's so different from the 2nd. I found the 2nd pitch a bit more chossy then I remembered, but still plenty safe. There was a section I ran out pretty far, but the climbing is easy so I felt very little risk.

The 1st pitch, if you like thin, slabby, somewhat wandering stuff is well worth the walk out there. There's plenty of pro after the first 15' or so (where there's none). When doing the 2nd pitch, definitely have a light hand and choose your placements and holds wisely. There are plenty of options, so no need to settle, keep looking and moving ... if necessary.

I might climb the 2nd pitch differently than described? After the Pine Tree ledge belay at the top of the first pitch, I head back left around the corner(on the ledge), and then up (30'?), and start trending back right, and finally up to a tree with webbing/slings on it. I end up just about exactly over the belayer (hence, be careful of loose rock on the trend-right section). Jun 6, 2017