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Routes in d. Harvest Moon to the End

Across From the Fruitstand T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Akidlleativytoowouldn'tyou T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
D.S.B T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dark Side of the Moon T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Eowyn T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Far from the Madding Crowd T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fat and Flabby T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Fossil Fools T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ground Control T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hang Ten T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Harvest Moon T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hold the Mayo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
I'm OK, You're OK T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Interlewd (Lady and the Tramp) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Keystone Kop T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
King of P T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
LP T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Lean and Mean T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Like a Box of Chocolates T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Live and Let Die T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Mac-Reppy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Main Line T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Near Side of Far, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Outsiders T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Positively 4th Street T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Punch and Judy T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
R2-OK? T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Roman's Climb Next to Keystone Kop T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Scrambled Legs T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Seniors in Motion T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shadow Nose, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shootin' the Curl T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Short and Sassy T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Spinal Exam T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Spinal Traction 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b C2
Strange Customs T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Swells Good T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Up in Arms T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Void Where Inhibited T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Void Where Prohibited T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Whatever T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 125 ft, 2 pitches
FA: P1:1960s.
Page Views: 2,191 total, 15/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Feb 25, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing Details

Description

The Williams Wall at the far end of the Nears has many fine climbs that would be quite crowded if found nearer to the road. This area is somewhat like the Guides Wall area in the Trapps. It is easily recognized as the clean, appealing slabby area near the end of the cliff.

This route is at the far end of this pleasant area. It is cleaner than many in the area and avoids the large, slightly loose overhanging section common to other routes around it. The descent to the left is relatively short and easy. There is some loose rock near the top so be careful with beginners. Start at the appealing finger crack instead of the line shown in the guidebooks. A good route for a beginning leader.

This is commonly done in two short pitches.

P1: Climb the crack to a large tree. 5.3, 75'.

P2(Little White Mushroom): Continue up to the roofy area and left to the top. 5.3, 50'.

Protection

Standard Gunks rack.

Photos

Great route for a first time leader and an aesthetic rarity @ 5.3. Gear can be had throughout. Jun 16, 2017
JSH

JSH    
I changed the name of this entry to King of P, as Dick called it that in his most recent book. The second pitch described here is still Little White Mushroom, so I've noted that in the description. Jan 1, 2014
This is not Little White Mushroom. LWM begins in the corner 15 left left of this crack.

The crack described here has been left out of all recent guidebooks, probably because until about 1992 or so it was extremely dirty. The climb will be included in the soon-to-be-released Williams' guide, though I do not know the real name or FA history.

It is a nice little route though and about 5.3 as described. If you look closely, you can tell it is actually a small fault, not just your normal crack (look for slickensides in the crack).

Can also be used to set up a TR on LP, assiming directionals are placed. Apr 22, 2008