Type: Trad
FA: Dick Williams, Dave Loeks, 1971
Page Views: 526 total · 4/month
Shared By: Dana Bartlett on Apr 19, 2009
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


25 Opinions

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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappeling Details
Access Issue: A portion of Near Trapps has been closed to climbing Details

Description

Climb the thin crack to its top, then go up the face for about 40 feet to the small overhang. There is no distinct line to follow, but the protection is adequate and the climbing is never harder than 5.5. Climb past the overhang to a vertical seam, move up the face above (crux) and belay at the tree.

Location

Slightly left of center on the Williams' wall, the low angle area that is approximately 200 feet past the White Pillar. Start at the obvious 20'-high thin crack.

Protection

Several small camming units

Photos

BrianRH
Jersey City, NJ
  5.7+
BrianRH   Jersey City, NJ
  5.7+
Just reclimbed the first pitch. Really nice. My 2008 notes in the guidebook indicate the second is great too. The crux is going over the small roof. A nice intro/ refresher for slab climbing for those accustomed to Gunks roofs. Sep 9, 2011
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
Thought this felt much harder than a 7. I think the crux moves are eaiser if you are tall. Aug 10, 2013
lucander
Stone Ridge, NY
  5.7+ PG13
lucander   Stone Ridge, NY
  5.7+ PG13
A great climb, it's too bad it took me so long to do this - each pitch is like a totally different climb: pitch 1 is a well protected footwork problem while pitch 2 (5.5) demands an expert eye for route finding through steep broken orange rock and adroit placements behind whatever rock vibrates the least. Sep 8, 2013
I agree with gblauer about the grade. My partner and I both felt this was a bit sandbagged (even @ 5'10"). I supposed 7+ makes sense then, if you consider p3 of Thin Slabs 7+. The gear is there when you need it for sure, but unless you're comfy on harder grades you're going to be a little stunned at the crux. Jun 16, 2017